As the grand gala dinner of the MICHELIN Guide Hanoi & Ho Chi Minh City 2023 ceremony unfolded, all eyes were drawn to a distinguished gentleman with shiny black hair, elegantly styled, and held in place as he rose from his seat. His name was called, and he gracefully made his way to the stage with ease. With an air of confidence and the biggest smile, he gracefully bowed before stepping onto the stage with a touch of endearing shyness. In that moment, the country of Vietnam witnessed history in the making as he became the first-ever sommelier to be honoured with the prestigious MICHELIN Guide award during its debut edition in Vietnam.
In the expatriate-friendly Thao Dien area of Ho Chi Minh City, Lửa is praised for its excellent wine selection, house-brewed sake, and European dishes with a Japanese twist. It's where Yu Yamamoto, an Osakajin with two decades in Japan's vibrant hospitality industry, and 15 dedicated years in fine wines and spirits, plies his trade. His passion and endless curiosity to the art of wine have made him a big part of the city's burgeoning culinary scene and growing wine culture.
We caught up with Yamamoto about his disinterest in wine to his personal wine tips.
How did you become interested in wine?
“Actually, I wasn't interested in wine when I first started working in F&B. However, as I learned more about wine – and, of course, enjoyed more wine – I grew to appreciate how it allowed me to explore the world, cultures, and people. And now, I work as a sommelier in Vietnam. Wine has truly changed my life.”
Do you recall the first memory you have with wine?
"My first encounter with wine was while sipping on a Domaine Parent Pinot Noir Bourgogne. I've forgotten the vintage already. I needed to assess its quality when I initially began working at a wine bar in Japan. This was a typical Burgundy red. At that time, I was unsure about why so many people held such a deep affection for Pinot Noir. It struck me as too delicate and sour, leaving me puzzled about its high price tag. However, I now really appreciate that Pinot Noir is among the most prestigious grape varieties globally. Back then, I failed to understand it.”
Why Vietnam?
"I wanted to work as a sommelier overseas, and Chef Mark (Shimmori), from Lửa, knew of my aspiration. He invited me to join his project. I decided to travel to Ho Chi Minh City to see how I felt about this new opportunity. Lửa is situated in a peaceful expat-friendly area, and during my visit, I found myself feeling so comfortable, easily envisioning life and work here. Plus, the wine scene in Vietnam was about to grow significantly. This got me excited to be part of the team. So I decided to move here.”How is the food and wine scene in Ho Chi Minh City right now?
“As you can see from the first MICHELIN Guide in Vietnam, the food and wine scene in Vietnam is rapidly improving. The local cuisine is so unique and varied. Passionate chefs and sommeliers are actively expressing both traditional and modern Vietnamese food cultures through their work. With wine, suppliers are trying to import leading wines from all over the world. I’m pretty sure that thanks to the first MICHELIN Guide in Vietnam, I think this momentum will continue.”
What kind of wine do you like to drink?
“Ho Chi Minh City is hot all year round, so I normally prefer to drink something chilled like a dry Riesling, Provençal rosé, or something sparkling. These wines are good for pairing with Vietnamese food as well. Vietnamese cuisine is based on fresh ingredients, minimal cooking, and lots of leafy greens. I plan to pair Vietnamese fresh summer rolls with a German dry Riesling next Sunday. I think it will be fun and can’t wait to try it.”Can you share a few tips on how to select wine?
“Understanding some basic information about wine can help you determine which wines are likely to suit your taste and which ones you might want to avoid. Start by finding a favourite grape variety, and then expand your wine preferences.“I strongly recommend making the most of a restaurant's sommelier. They are in the best position to select wines that complement the menu items. A mismatch between food and wine can easily transform a fantastic meal into a disappointing experience. Sommeliers are there to help you, so don't hesitate to seek their advice and be clear about your budget.
“And my final and top tip is happy drinking and eating!”
Illustration image: © Mervin Lee/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam
