When the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi opened in what was then French Indochina, it introduced Le Beaulieu, the hotel’s signature French restaurant that has been a fixture since 1901. Now, over 120 years later, this establishment—believed to be the oldest continually operating restaurant in Vietnam while recently being selected in the MICHELIN Guide Vietnam 2024 edition—continues to offer a refined French dining experience that blends classical European flavours with an emphasis on seasonality and superior ingredients.
This culinary evolution parallels that of Minh Long, a high-quality Vietnamese porcelain brand that celebrates the essence of cuisine while promoting Vietnamese culture through its cuisine.
Founded in 1970, Minh Long has come to be renowned for its luxury and durability, consistently delivering sophistication and aesthetics that enhance the culinary expression and preservation of each dish's essence. “By combining ceramic art and culinary art,” says Ly Huy Sang of Minh Long, “we aim to evoke the beauty and true value of each quintessential dish in the hearts of diners.”
A prime example of such a dish is La Pintade, created by Chef Charles Degrendele, the 31-year-old head chef at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi. Before his tenure at the Grande Dame of Hanoi, he honed his skills in MICHELIN Starred restaurants across France, Australia, England, Ireland, and Japan, including a stint as sous chef at Shuzo Kishida’s three-MICHELIN Starred Quintessence in Tokyo.
Originally crafted using duck, Degrendele adapted the dish for Sofitel Metropole by substituting it with pintade—guinea fowl, traditionally served at his grandmother’s Christmas dinners—to better suit the lighter palate preferences in Southeast Asia. “As a head chef, it’s important to listen to our guests,” he says. “In some ways, they push me to do better.”
To complement the pintade, he selects a variety of wild mushrooms, infusing the dish with a woodsy earthiness that balances the meat’s dry profile. The dish is elegantly served with a side of endive dressed in an orange-cinnamon-anise dressing and accompanied by a duo of sauces—a savoury, umami-flavoured pintade jus and a creamy, aromatic sourdough espuma foam—to complete the presentation.
The approach to cuisine and service at Le Beaulieu is profoundly influenced by a chef-driven perspective that favours traditional French techniques blended with stylish presentation, well-balanced portions, and fresh produce. In his commitment to offering the finest, Chef Degrendele emphasises sustainability, innovation, and simplicity—principles that shine through in the dish’s preparation and presentation.
Other than the pintade, which is sourced from an overseas small supplier, every other component—from the flour and sourdough to fresh vegetables sourced from Da Lat—is carefully selected from local Vietnamese suppliers, relationships he nurtured upon arriving in the country.
By weaving in these Vietnamese elements and drawing on his personal experiences and travels, Degrendele infuses classical dishes with modern flair. Growing up with artistic parents has also endowed him with a sharp aesthetic sense, enabling him to artfully simplify dishes to emphasise focal points, allowing layers of flavour to unfold for the diner.
To the Frenchman, the essence of French cuisine lies in its sauces. “There’s no cuisine that bases its identity on sauces as much as French food, which is a key strength of French cuisine,” he adds, noting the diversity in sauces and their presence in virtually every dish.
Reflecting on his 14-year career, the Marseille-born chef observes a trend toward lighter French cuisine. “At the end of the meal, I don’t want guests to feel overly full,” he states. “I want them to feel light, able to enjoy a walk and a drink.”
This philosophy aligns with Minh Long's focus on offering healthier, more thoughtful choices for everyone, from home cooks to connoisseurs. Chef Degrendele and Le Beaulieu's commitment to blending French culinary arts with Vietnamese influences also reflects Minh Long's dedication to showcasing Vietnamese culture through exquisite porcelain. This shared commitment to excellence and cultural expression allows each to enhance its identity, exemplifying how traditional methods can be revitalised through modern innovation to create distinct and memorable dining experiences.
Just as Minh Long porcelain represents the pinnacle of craftsmanship, Charles Degrendele channels a similar artistry into his creations at Le Beaulieu, inviting guests to draw inspiration from this shared pursuit of culinary elegance by recreating his signature pintade dish at home.
Organic Pintade, wild mushroom duxelles, sourdough, endive orange and jus
Pintade preparation:
- Break down a whole pintade and separate each part.
- Roast until the skin is 180 degrees Celsius, until golden and crispy, then chop.
- Use the neck, wings, and bones to make stock.
- Brine the breast for about 30 minutes (Brine mixture: 2.5 kg water, 120g salt, 35g sugar, peppercorns, and thyme).
Pintade mousse:
- Combine all pintade trimmings, legs, and 3g of salt to make a pintade mousse:
- Blend 200g of meat with 2 egg whites and pass through a drum sieve.
- Mix in 300g of cream. Taste and season as needed. - Form the mixture into a ballotine and cook at 80 degrees Celsius for 24 minutes in a steam oven. Chill immediately after cooking.
Mushroom duxelles:
- Prepare the duxelles using available ingredients from the market:
- 300g wild mushrooms, 1 large banana shallot, and 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped.
Endive:
- Reduce 300g of orange juice with one stick of cinnamon and half a star anise until syrup consistency.
- Prep and wash the endive. When ready to serve, compress the raw endive with the dressing.
Sauces:
Pintade jus:
- Combine the juice from the duxelles with 600g of brown pintade stock.
- Reduce to a glaze-like consistency and infuse with lemon zest.
Sourdough espuma:
- Infuse 600g of milk with 1 chopped small onion, 3 cloves, 2 garlic cloves, thyme, and 3g peppercorns for about 30 minutes.
- Strain this mixture over 130g of sourdough bread and 30g of mascarpone.
- Blend in a Thermomix, adding 3g of lecithin and 0.3g of xanthan gum.
- Sift and reserve in an espuma bottle charged with one gas cartridge.
Plating:
- Garnish with garlic or chive flowers for an added touch of elegance.
- Arrange the pintade, mushroom duxelles, and endive on a plate
- Spoon the sourdough espuma.
- Drizzle the pintade jus around the endive.
- Garnish with garlic or chive flowers for an elegant finishing touch.
Tips from the chef
- The dish can be made with other types of poultry, including chicken and turkey.
- Brining is the most important step, so do not skip it, as it keeps the meat very soft and moist.
- Bon appétit!
The professional's choice
Great food is only truly complete when served on exceptional plateware. Minh Long understands this, which is why its porcelain products—renowned for their sophistication, durability, and aesthetic elegance—are trusted by professionals. For over 50 years, the leading porcelain brand has infused each piece with Vietnamese culture, art, and soul. In partnership with Michelin, Minh Long unites ceramic craftsmanship with culinary artistry, ensuring that every dish is not just a meal, but an experience—where every bite and every plate reflects a shared passion for excellence.
