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Dining Out 3 minutes 07 October 2019

Dale Talde's Goosefeather Serves Up a Taste of Hong Kong

The Hudson Valley restaurant is named after an ancient Chinese proverb that encourages the idea of meaningful gift giving.

new opening

Though the Headless Horseman is undoubtedly Tarrytown's most famous resident, chef Dale Talde's recently opened Goosefeather is poised to demonstrate there's a better use for fire than flaming pumpkins. That's because the Top Chef star and MICHELIN Guide alum will be using his massive backyard for outdoor wood-fired cooking events in addition to a kitchen firing up wok-roasted scallops, whole-roasted Cantonese duck and char siu Berkshire pork nightly. Located in the historic Georgian-era King Mansion on the grounds of the Tarrytown House Estate, Goosefeather is the first restaurant from Talde's newly formed hospitality group, Food Crush Hospitality, which he runs with his wife Agnes Chung Talde. Here, Talde is focused on the cuisine of Hong Kong, with a menu defined by dim sum, noodles and Chinese barbecue. The chef is also taking full advantage of Hudson Valley real estate. Goosefeather plans to host large-format family-style farm-to-table dinners as well as taking part in local events like Sleepy Hollow's Great Jack O'Lantern Blaze. The property also plans to grow over 40 varieties of vegetables and herbs as well as an an apiary to produce honey.

Dale and Agnes Chung Talde.
Dale and Agnes Chung Talde.

Fans of Talde's previous restaurants will see a few spins on some familiar favorites the chef is known for. "I've always had fun with dumplings and I think our black truffle pork wontons and the aged beef dumpling pot stickers are special," he says. Guests who dine at Goosefeather will also find plenty of spice throughout the menu, with shareable appetizers like the aforementioned dry-aged beef dumplings served with a plentiful side of Chinese mustard and the Cantonese lobster's menu description indicates the dish is served with "a lot of garlic." Though meat and seafood are featured prominently throughout the menu, so too are vegetarian friendly options like grilled delicata squash and Chinese broccoli with shiitake mushrooms. The Brussels sprouts salad includes grapes, peanuts and hot and sour tamarind, while a plate of leafy greens is highlighted by roasted beets, bok choy and apples in a salted plum vinaigrette.

Joining Talde is general manager Carlos Baz, formerly of New York City's Black Crescent, whose drink menu was built around classic cocktail formulas paired with Dale's cuisine. "The cocktail program revolves around classically inspired cocktails that are unique, whether it be by way of their ingredients or the method by which we make them," says Baz. Drinks like the Post Paloma, named in honor of rapper Post Malone and a remix of the original Paloma, are made here using tequila, yuzu kosho, cantaloupe, lime and soda. Infused spirits are prominent on the menu, with pink peppercorn and banana serving as bases for different cocktails. However, there's plenty of old school wines if the thought of dining in an old American mansion has you feeling nostalgic. "The wine program especially, which is comprised wholly of old world wines, reflects Dale's specific style of cuisine in that it is eclectic but rooted in great tradition," explains Baz.

The Cantonese lobster's menu description indicates the dish is served with "a lot of garlic."
The Cantonese lobster's menu description indicates the dish is served with "a lot of garlic."

For those who just want a snack or a more casual night out, Goosefeather has a dedicated bar menu that includes sourdough Hong Kong waffles with chicken liver mousse and a grilled avocado salad, as well as select dinner menu choices like the prawn toast and scallion pancake. "With the beer and cocktail program, we wanted to have craveable drinks . . . with a certain acidity to pair with our food, to help you with the next bite," says Talde. Bottles range from $40 to $100, with wine also available by the glass.

One of Goosefeather's most notable traits is undoubtedly its sense of fun, conveyed by its menu descriptions as well as the mixture of modern art and photos decorating the walls of a historically preserved mansion. If you feel like you've been transported through time where American history and hip hop have joined forces, you aren't dreaming. A photo of Yankees baseball legend Rich "Goose" Gossage hangs in a restroom, while a portrait of Bruce Lee decked out in military attire resting above a fireplace in the bar room is a reminder the King Mansion has hosted a ton of parties since it was first constructed in the 1840s. Even the plain white ceilings have been redecorated to add replicas of murals by artist Joan Miró, which give the restored dining rooms featuring original wood flooring a truly unique feeling. The restaurant includes four separate dining areas as well as an outdoor terrace. There's also an outdoor lounge complete with fire pits along with an interior bar room and lounge.

The ceilings feature replicas of murals by artist Joan Miró.
The ceilings feature replicas of murals by artist Joan Miró.

After the last several years that saw the dissolution of Talde's popular New York City restaurant empire, Goosefeather's opening is the first page of a new chapter for the talented chef. Goosefeather is named after an ancient Chinese proverb that encourages the idea of meaningful gift giving, which for the chef now includes sharing his passion for restaurants with his family. "The most special part of this project is being able to work with my wife and starting our new hospitality group with this project. Being able to put together a wine list, cocktail program with Carlos, service style and helping design the space with my own vision has been special and rewarding," explains Talde.

Goosefeather is currently serving dinner daily with plans to roll out Sunday brunch service as well as breakfast in the coming weeks.

Photos courtesy of All Good.

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