Ignore the fact that Jitlada is located in a strip mall beneath a neon sign—the crowds prove that this skilled cadre of chefs knows what they’re doing in the kitchen. The setting even has a touch of Hollywood; next to their framed awards and reviews, find illustrations by the Simpsons creator (and Jitlada super-fan)—Matt Groening.

The offerings are extensive, but certain dishes jump off the page. Be sure to sample bubbling-hot Taepo chicken curry, rich with coconut milk, brightly flavored with turmeric and tender morning glory stems. The range of “Spicy Thai Dipped Dishes” are equally delicious, particularly nam prik pla, vibrantly seasoned red snapper, ground with red chilies and served with the soothing tastes and textures of crunchy vegetables.