Ken Frank surrounded himself with all things food at a young age; his love affair with French cuisine and cooking escalated when living in France as a teenager. After returning stateside, Frank made a name for himself at the always-bustling Michael’s in Santa Monica, where he insisted on using only fresh and seasonal ingredients native to California. At the ripe age of 23, Frank left his position to open up La Toque on the scene-y Sunset Strip. And after nearly two successful decades, Frank took his restaurant north to the Napa Valley. Located in the Westin Versa, La Toque has consistently earned one Michelin star since the San Francisco guide launch 12 years ago.
What was your first encounter with the MICHELIN Guide?
First of all, the MICHELIN Guide is the only book that counts in the restaurant business—there’s only one that’s internationally known. Getting a star is such a prestigious flag to fly. It garners a very different level of respect that nothing else does.
What were your thoughts when you knew you received a star?
The first year [Michelin] did the Bay Area guide we got a star. I got the call. I was proud, relieved, thrilled—I mean jumping up and down thrilled. It’s a big deal. Especially that first year. They had done the New York City guide the year before, and it was the first time we felt we were on Michelin’s radar. We knew we had good restaurants in the U.S., but now we were worthy.
What was your first encounter with the MICHELIN Guide?
First of all, the MICHELIN Guide is the only book that counts in the restaurant business—there’s only one that’s internationally known. Getting a star is such a prestigious flag to fly. It garners a very different level of respect that nothing else does.
What were your thoughts when you knew you received a star?
The first year [Michelin] did the Bay Area guide we got a star. I got the call. I was proud, relieved, thrilled—I mean jumping up and down thrilled. It’s a big deal. Especially that first year. They had done the New York City guide the year before, and it was the first time we felt we were on Michelin’s radar. We knew we had good restaurants in the U.S., but now we were worthy.
How did you celebrate?
I don’t know if we particularly celebrated other than jumping up and down and then going to the party. You get the phone call the morning of the party. And that was the first time I met the director of the Guide, Michael Ellis. It was his first year as director, and when I met him he said, “Ken, I bet you probably don’t remember who I am. I just wanted to tell you how much I enjoyed working with you.” He worked for me almost 40 years ago!
How much influence/inspiration does the Michelin Guide have on your career?
It’s a big deal. I’ve been doing this for 40 years, I made the Times when I was 21, I was in Gourmet and Bon Appétit, and had great reviews. The one that always meant the most to me was getting a star. You either have one or you don’t. And it’s a pretty small club.
How did getting a star change the direction of your restaurant?
I’ve always moved forward slowly and confidently. I don’t know if gunning for a second star is a smart thing, it’s better to just be good. if it happens, it happens, but remember to be good. And whatever you do, don’t lose the one.
What advice do you have for young chefs aiming for Michelin stars?
First of all, you have to be true to yourself. Hire a great crew and put your passion into it. Try to keep getting better. And make the people around you get better, too. It’s a really crucial thing—you can’t do it by yourself. You have to learn how to get a team motivated to achieve with you and be proud of what you, as a team, do. That’s a challenge for many chefs. When I was in my early 20s, I was not as enlightened as I am now. I pride myself on running a very quiet, peaceful and smooth kitchen. What you see on reality television is NOT how to run a good kitchen. I tell people that when they eat at the chef’s table. If they’re looking for that, they won’t see it. Sure, it makes for good TV, but not for a good kitchen. When it’s a well-oiled machine—things are tasting good, timed right and everyone is communicating—it’s a beauty to behold.
I don’t know if we particularly celebrated other than jumping up and down and then going to the party. You get the phone call the morning of the party. And that was the first time I met the director of the Guide, Michael Ellis. It was his first year as director, and when I met him he said, “Ken, I bet you probably don’t remember who I am. I just wanted to tell you how much I enjoyed working with you.” He worked for me almost 40 years ago!
How much influence/inspiration does the Michelin Guide have on your career?
It’s a big deal. I’ve been doing this for 40 years, I made the Times when I was 21, I was in Gourmet and Bon Appétit, and had great reviews. The one that always meant the most to me was getting a star. You either have one or you don’t. And it’s a pretty small club.
How did getting a star change the direction of your restaurant?
I’ve always moved forward slowly and confidently. I don’t know if gunning for a second star is a smart thing, it’s better to just be good. if it happens, it happens, but remember to be good. And whatever you do, don’t lose the one.
What advice do you have for young chefs aiming for Michelin stars?
First of all, you have to be true to yourself. Hire a great crew and put your passion into it. Try to keep getting better. And make the people around you get better, too. It’s a really crucial thing—you can’t do it by yourself. You have to learn how to get a team motivated to achieve with you and be proud of what you, as a team, do. That’s a challenge for many chefs. When I was in my early 20s, I was not as enlightened as I am now. I pride myself on running a very quiet, peaceful and smooth kitchen. What you see on reality television is NOT how to run a good kitchen. I tell people that when they eat at the chef’s table. If they’re looking for that, they won’t see it. Sure, it makes for good TV, but not for a good kitchen. When it’s a well-oiled machine—things are tasting good, timed right and everyone is communicating—it’s a beauty to behold.
