Our Inspectors have eaten their way up, down, and across Mexico in search of the top tables, but with countless meals under their belts, these are the seven that really made an impression. From tostadas that tempt to riffs on the classics, here are the dishes that rank among their favorites in 2024.
Casa Marcelo
Dish: Tostada de Camaron
This was a visually temping tostada; a neat, ample pile of diced raw shrimp, diced cucumber, thinly sliced Serrano chili and slices of red onion all tinted bright green from pulsed fresh herbs saucing the combination of ingredients. There was a lovely balance of fresh chili heat, herbal brightness, and citrus acidity. The product and flavors were all undeniably fresh. Ensenada is known for its very good mariscos preparations, and this was great.
Cobarde
Dish: Naan
The best naan I’ve ever had…is in Oaxaca? How is this possible? The naan has a brilliant crust but is still flexible and chewy in the center, slicked with a yuzu aioli, tender and thinly sliced beef tongue, cilantro flowers, and capers. Salty, crunchy, chewy, and savory — this really hits all the marks. Light and impossible to resist.
Conchas de Piedra
Dish: Abalone Aguachile
Served in two abalone shells, thinly sliced abalone rests at the base and is topped with angel hair-thin ribbons of ulva seaweed and cilantro blossoms. It was finished with a green apple aguachile red pepper oil.
Los Danzantes
Dish: Mole
Five moles (amarillo, manchamanteles, rojo, chichilo, negro) served in small jars and in the middle, little orbs of plantain dumplings. The moles are excellent, each one brilliantly distinct and soundly layered with spices, fruits, chilis -- all of it seamless and long on impact and finish.
Levadura
Dish: Tamal of requeson cheese and squash blossom.
The chef learned to make tamales from her grandmother and these have a beautiful, delicate shape, like a thick-stuffed envelope. The masa is defined and moist—glossed over with two sauces sharing each side of the plate: A mole negro and a spicy coloradito. A gorgeous layer of squash blossoms lines the other half of the plate. This is accomplished, finessed cooking.
Quintonil
Dish: King crab in pipian verde
How original! This dark green sauce is made from pipian seeds and paired with king crab meat and shards of blue corn tostada sticking out of the sauce like an iceberg. The sauce is excellent and boasts this wonderful, tropical lemon-verbena note. Such a memorable sauce; high-toned and impactful.
Siembra Tortilleria
Dish: Fish al pastor with blue corn tortillas
This is a fun riff on the pork versions. The seasoning is sharp and bold, with a great crispy, charred cook on the fish. Served with a large wedge of pineapple. This is such a great twist on a classic.
Hero image: Juan Pablo Tavera | Jpark Studio / Quintonil
