Two Stars • Excellent cooking, worth a detour
Over 75 USD
Welcome to one of Chicago’s greatest restaurants. The interior is mod yet industrial, with an open kitchen—filled with jovial professionals who look like they’re cooking for a dinner party—that takes up a good deal of the space. The fact that nothing feels stuffy should not surprise since Oriole is something of a family business. Crisp attention to detail is clear in every member of this team, who are all thoroughly versed in the intricacies of the rather complex menu. Laying aside his previous gluten-free cooking at Senza, Chef Noah Sandoval embraces all ingredients with contemporary edge and global flavors. Expect binchotan grilling, fresh pasta, frozen foam, and recurring flourishes like gastriques or Spanish cheeses. The kitchen's opening salvo may feature a warm Scottish langoustine with white asparagus, a dollop of Kristal caviar, and torched lardo. This may be followed by jamón Ibérico de Bellota, served as a sort of "salad" with black walnut, bits of Campo de Montalban, and a drizzle of black pepper gastrique. Superb desserts courtesy of Pastry Chef/partner Genie Kwon pay homage to NOLA, like chicory custard with frozen whiskey foam, orange zest, and cinnamon-dusted vanilla ice cream.
- Notable wine list
- Wheelchair accessible