Friendship and comradeship are forged through hardships and battles. Ang Thong-Sing Buri are two neighbouring provinces that have fought side by side throughout the pages of history forming a close bond between the lives of the local people. Today, travellers paying a visit to Sing Buri would also go pay homage to the Buddha images in Ang Thong and vice versa. Hence, it would be natural to include the two provinces as a duo destination. Getting there, it takes about a two-hour drive via the Asian Highway through Phra Nakhon Sri Ayutthaya to arrive in Ang Thong then Sing Buri, respectively. Many would think about the historical chronologies of Mueang Wiset Chai Chan and the Bang Rachan villagers when visiting these two provinces. However, Ang Thong and Sing Buri also hold a secret in culinary art, which has been passed down from generation to generation.
By the Riverbank: the Legend of Bang Rachan
Starting at Ang Thong province, the first place to visit are the sacred temples situated across the city. Wat Muang, Amphoe Wiset Chai Chan is where the largest Buddha in the world is enshrined. With a breathtaking height of 95 metres and 63.05 metres in width, the Buddha image took 16 years to complete. This particular Buddha is believed to help provide a blessing in one’s career progression by touching the Buddha image’s fingertips while paying homage. Aside from this religious belief, Wat Muang, is also home to important religious architecture, including a sacred glass chapel surrounded with a sea of the largest lotus petals in the world. The Wihan Kaeo is made of small pieces of glass. Enshrined on the upper level is said to be the first genuine silver Buddha, while the lower level features a museum of antiquities and relics. Open only during the weekends, visitors are advised to check the opening hours prior to paying a visit.
After the long tour around Wat Muang, head for the best local street food at the 100-year-old market, Talat San Chao Rong Thong, which is located next to Noi River in Ang Thong. It is believed that the village was established after the second fall of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya, which indicates that the market is even older than Bangkok. A paradise for dessert lovers, tease your sweet tooth with Kaeson Lum Chiak - roasted pancakes with coconut candy fillings. The dessert is made from mixing sticky rice flour and coconut milk together before sifting the mixture onto a hot plate in a thin, snow-like layer. After leaving the mixture to set, add a filling of stir-fried grated coconut with sugar and pandan leaf juice. After the thin snow-like layer is set, roll the coconut candy filling carefully. The fragrant pandan leaf juice in the filling is well-rounded with the creamy sweet coconut candy. The name of the dessert is derived from the sifted, snow-like mixture, which resembles the pollen (kaeson) of Dok Lum Chiak. For the best Kaeson Lum Chiak, visit the market in the morning when they are freshly made.
Being a waterfront town, Ang Thong boasts an impressive offering of local fish dishes. The most popular fish, however, is Pla Nuea On (sheatfish), which can be cooked into a wide variety of dishes. Not to be missed is the signature Chu Chi Pla Nuea On with morning glory, where the deep fried morning glory and fish are perfectly combined with the creamy and spicy sauce. The fish is deep-fried until golden brown before stir-frying it with Kreuang Kaeng (Thai curry paste) made from aromatic galangal, lemongrass and kaffir lime peel. The spices used in this dish are the sources for natural essential oils that contain both aromatic and medicinal properties.
After enjoying the dish with fresh fish from the Noi River, cruise along the river to enjoy the beautiful scenery on both sides of its banks, which is part of the new touring concept around Amphoe Wiset Chai Chan called ‘Long Ruea Mae Nam Noi, Tam Roi ‘Rang Nok Krachap’, which translates into ‘Cruise along the Noi River; Trace the River Sparrow’s Nest’. This trip allows visitors to pay homage to Buddha images in temples along the river; namely, at the sacred Wat Si Roi and Wat Sai Yuet, to mention a couple, while enjoying sights of the River Sparrow’s nests. To take the cruise, hop on board at the Bang Chak Municipal Pier, where the boat will head northbound along the Noi River. The most stunning highlight can be no less than the hundreds of River Sparrow’s nests perching on the trees along the river, where locals have left the nests unharmed, so as to keep the balance of the natural life cycle in the area. The perfect time to enjoy this view is between August and November.
Leaving Ang Thong, the next destination naturally leads to the land of heroes - Sing Buri. An old song that tells of the battle of Bang Rachan may come to the mind of some, as they come to a stop at “The Heroes of Khai Bang Rachan Park and Monument”. Aside from paying homage and remembering the fallen warriors who fought to protect their freedom, today, the location also boasts another popular tourist destination, Talat Thai Yon Yuk Ban Rachan or Ban Rachan Thai Retro Weekend Market, which is open every weekend and on public holidays. The Market is designed as a replica of how the local market would look like back in the days of the Bang Rachan heroes, hence explaining the market’s high wooden fortresses and fences where tourists take photos. The vendors, too, dress and speak in ancient dialects while selling traditional food and snacks made with ancient recipes that have been passed down from generation to generation.
One of the dishes not to be missed at the market is Tom Pla Ra Hua Tan, a spicy soup dish cooked with toddy palm and fermented fish paste. The head of the toddy palm fruit is a shoot which is attached to the jelly-like fruit inside the shell of a toddy palm. After the fruit has been enjoyed, the shoot is used to make this spicy soup so as to not create any waste. As toddy palm trees are abundant in Sing Buri, it is one of the main local ingredients used in many dishes. Historical recordings have shown that the dish was amongst some of the finest local offerings that was presented as a welcoming menu for King Rama V the Great when he visited Sing Buri during his reign. The main ingredient of Tom Pla Ra Hua Tan is Hua Tan On, or the young shoot of the toddy palm. It is cooked with coconut milk and spice with a dash of fermented fish paste, with cane sugar added to taste. Over the years, Tom Pla Ra Hua Tan has become rarer to find, and travellers may have to check with the restaurant prior to visiting.
Aside from Tom Pla Ra Hua Tan, another popular ingredient of the province is fish. In fact, fish is as famous as the heroes here in Sing Buri, particularly grilled Mae La fish. Mae La fish are, in fact, snakehead fish, but the name Mae La is used for snakehead fish caught from the Mae La River. For the best grilled Mae La fish, head to Amphoe In Buri (In Buri district) for Pla Chon Mae La Phao, Sa Dao Faet Fai, which can be translated to grilled snakehead fish with neem sprouts. Fish is abundant here at In Buri, which is situated by the Mae La River. The snakehead fish here is unique thanks to its pinkish ear fins and the pinkish stripes visible in their meat. Snakehead fish from Mae La is juicy and tender. The villagers here would cook the fish by grilling it on a low flame until the skin and scales are burnt. Some may bake the fish with coir to add more flavour and aroma to the meat. The fish is then served with sour and spicy sauce or with Nam Pla Wan (sweet fish sauce) paired with soft grilled neem sprouts (Sa Dao Faet Fai).
After filling one’s stomach, head to Wat Phra Non Chakkrasi Worawihan, a temple that is believed to predate the Kingdom of Ayutthaya. Inside the hall, a large reclining Buddha image is enshrined. Facing the north, this beautiful Sukhothai-style Buddha image is almost 50 metres long. Aside from the reclining Buddha, one will also have the chance to see cannonball trees, a type of plant which holds special religious significance to Buddhists. Ang Thong and Sing Buri are ideal for those looking for a one-day trip of spiritual calming, nature cruises, and culinary delights. The two neighbouring provinces are located not far from Bangkok making it a worthwhile visit where one can explore two cities within a day.
Must-visit
1. Wat Muang, Amphoe Wiset Chai Chan
2. Talat San Chao Rong Thong
3. Noi River Cruise: Long Ruea Mae Nam Noi, Tam Roi ‘Rang Nok Krachap’ (Tel. 08-4540-8351 for the cruise at the Bang Chak Municipality)
4. Wat Phra Non Chakkrasi Worawihan and Talat Tong Chom
5. Pay homage to the heroes of Bang Rachan at the Khai Bang Rachan Park and Monument.
6. Talat Thai Yon Yuk Ban Rachan or Ban Rachan Thai Retro Weekend Market
