Behind The Bib: Ayutthaya’s Baan Ta Ko Rai Serves Delightful Freshwater Dishes That Beats Any Riverside Views

Authentic family recipes
“Our restaurant serves traditional Thai food using authentic recipes. Whatever our household likes to eat, we want our customers to have a taste of that too,” explained owner Somnuek Thaipipatpanich of their humble beginnings.

Around 10 years ago, the restaurant was just a small eatery in their neighbourhood. Only a few tables were available, but the popularity of his wife’s delectable cooking spread through word of mouth. As their fame increased, they needed more tables to serve all of their diners, so they moved to their current location, seven years ago.

Initially, Baan Ta Ko Rai was only frequented by locals, as visitors to Ayutthaya mostly looked for riverside restaurants with comfy seats and a picturesque atmosphere. Because it does not boast river views or a stylish ambiance, the restaurant is usually overlooked by those in search of a chic dining destination. How they would miss out. Baan Ta Ko Rai may be a simple setting, but marvellous food is served here.

Previously a government school teacher, Thaipipatpanich only opened his restaurant with his wife after retirement. As a woman well-versed in the art of cooking from absorbing recipes and techniques from past generations, Thaipipatpanich’s wife is the force that brings their delicious family recipes to life. This solo cooking has evolved into a sister act of three, as her two younger sisters help out in the kitchen. This eatery is truly a family business that delights with flavours that pack a punch.

“Ever since we received the award from Michelin, our customer base has increased exponentially. When we ask how they’ve heard about our restaurant, they all say from reading the MICHELIN Guide,” said Tanatchmon “Pook” Thaipipatpanich, Thaipipatpanich’s daughter-in-law and second-generation custodian to their restaurant.

What to order?
Don’t forget to try Prawn and Herbs Spicy Salad, a royally inspired dish. A long-time customer and Thai aristocrat suggested using the prawns in a sour salad recipe popular during the reign of King Rama V. Initially, wild river prawns were used ten years ago, thanks to the abundance of the crustacean in the area. Due to its raging demand from consumers, the supply dwindled and the restaurant has adapted to use other farmed-raised prawns instead.

Freshly grilled prawns are tossed in a piquant dressing of tamarind juice, chilli, ginger, onions, lemongrass, scallions, and coriander. These bright flavours are accompanied by fresh vegetables such as cucumber, winged beans, and white turmeric. Every bite is a perfect blend of luscious, premium prawns and a light, spicy tartness that really whets your appetite.

Another authentic Ayutthaya dish that attracts visitors from near and far is undoubtedly Grilled River Prawns. Somnuek shares a pro tip as we ready ourselves to tuck in: a truly fresh prawn will have meat that easily pulls away from the shell. Especially if you start from the tail.

We’re happy to report that Baan Ta Ko Rai’s prawns are delightfully fresh, with tenderly firm and sweet flesh. Ideally, you should enjoy the whole prawn and mix the lush prawn fat with some steaming rice and seafood sauce. It’s a pity that those allergic to seafood will miss out on this divine dish, but on the other hand, that also means more prawns for you.

The Stir-fried Spicy Pork Ribs with Tree Basil Leaves is made with finely ground pork ribs fried dry with basil and kaffir lime. Seasonings such as tree basil and coriander powders add rich aromas and spicy heat. The stir-fry is then consumed with fresh tree basil leaves and honey-pickled garlic— an unusual combination of components that nevertheless complements each other. This intriguing wrap is also delicious and a must try.

As for the Chu Chee Curry-fried Fish, the freshwater catch and rich curry make this another dish you’ll easily polish off. We followed that up with an order of Stir-fried Lotus Stems with Prawns. The prawns are stir-fried with natural lotus, not farmed lotus. Such a simple choice creates a sweeter and crispier mouthfeel. Unlike other restaurants, the dish is also topped with sun-dried squid flakes for more texture and umami. Another pleasing pick not to be missed are their Fish Cakes— perfectly chewy and well-paired with its sweet ajad sauce.

Then, Tom Yum Goong nicely rounds out the meal. The prawns were perfectly cooked and remained delightfully firm, while its fat provided a richness to the soup. Sparsely seasoned so you can truly taste the ingredients’ natural flavours. There is no sugar added in Baan Ta Ko Rai’s recipe, which makes for a now rare and authentic, old-school style of tom yum that is both delicious and flavourful – the way Thais ate decades ago. This popular dish may change your perception of the famed tom yum you’ve had and surely is the one to come back for more.

The last dish that has its own following of return customers is their Stir-fried Kale with Salted Fish. They only use large-stemmed kale, which must be peeled to acquire the soft stalk inside. “If we ordered 5 kg of kale, what can actually be used weighs only 2 kg,” Somnuek and his daughter-in-law shared as they peeled the kale. Once peeled, the kale is stir-fried over high heat and set aside.

The salted fish topping is made by completely deboning the salted fish then stir-frying it with ground pork to temper the saltiness. A pinch of sugar creates more depth and a fluffy crunchiness. The oil is then drained, and the salted fish mixture is sprinkled over the previously prepared kale. Unlike other restaurants, this version is exquisitely dry, preserving the myriad flavours and textures. In fact, this writer confirms that this is the ultimate dish worth returning for— and even ordered a box to take home.

Don’t be fooled by this unassuming restaurant’s looks, because it does not disappoint when it comes to rich flavours from the highest quality ingredients. Baan Ta Ko Rai’s skilled cooking and authentic family recipes can make you forget the lack of river views as you focus on every bite.