Travel 1 minute 19 November 2017

Travel Guide: Michelin-Recommended Izakayas in Shinjuku

For when you're in Tokyo's Shinjuku district looking for affordable food and drink.

If you've paid Shinjuku a visit, you'll realise that it's a city within a city. Shinjuku's sheer breadth and scale is impressive, with over three million people passing through the train station alone. In the day, the energy in Tokyo's central ward is abuzz - intense, palpable and on edge. But energy changes once the sun sets. The pace is still brisk but the intentions have shifted from work to pleasure as salarymen file out of the offices and into narrow alleys for food and drink.

Here are four Michelin-recommended izakayas (casual Japanese gastropub) that are located in the entertainment district.

Yorozuya Okagesan (萬屋 おかげさん)
B1F, Matsumoto Bldg, 2-10 Yotsuya, Shinjuku-ku 
Opening hours: 6pm to 10pm, daily.
Distinction: One Michelin Star

Here's what our inspectors say: The warmth and dedication of the owner-chef has added to the popularity of his restaurant, whose theme is ‘seasonal vegetables and local sake’. Only an omakase with plenty of shuko is served; more items can be added if required. The highlight is the sashimi. Instead of being served with the standard soy sauce, the young tuna is straw-smoked and the kinmedai is sprinkled with karasumi. Salted rice ball is a popular item to end with.
Kisaiya Hide, a new entry in Tokyo's Michelin Guide
Kisaiya Hide, a new entry in Tokyo's Michelin Guide

Kisaiya Hide (季彩や ひで)
6-23 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku
Opening hours: 5.30pm to 11pm, daily.
Distinction: Bib Gourmand

There were two new izakaya entrants from Shinjuku in the latest edition of Tokyo's Michelin Guide. Kisaiya Hide is one of them. The space is clean, sharp and minimalistic, almost reminiscent of the pristine sushiya. The food served here is fresh and seasonal, with the menu often on rotation but customers can count on consistently good sashimi as well as an impressive range of sakes.

Takuan (たく庵)
B1F, Otaka Bldg, 3-13-1 Yotsuya, Shinjuku-ku
Opening hours: 5.30pm to midnight. Closed on alternate Saturday. 
Distinction: Bib Gourmand

Located in the basement of the unassuming Otaka building in Shinjuku is a surprisingly classy and elegant izakaya. Clean, modern and contemporary, Takuan is worth the adventure one has to embark on to find the Japanese gastropub. The food here is top-notch and customers will learn about how seriously the izakaya takes their sake.

Apart from sake, umeshu or plum liqueur is another traditional Japanese spirit served at izakayas to accompany the food.
Apart from sake, umeshu or plum liqueur is another traditional Japanese spirit served at izakayas to accompany the food.
Shuko Takigiya (タキギヤ)
7 Arakicho, Shinjuku-ku
Opening hours: 5pm to midnight, daily. Closed on Sundays.
Distinction: Bib Gourmand

Word of advice: go early. Shuko Takigiya is the last of the new izakaya entrants based in Shinjuku but they've been popular among salarymen for a long time before. The food here mirrors its traditional, rustic decor; dishes served are simple but delicious. No fanciful plating to be found here. And customers will be happy to know that they've got an extensive sake menu to accompany their food as well as beers, umeshu (plum liquor) and shochu (a distilled spirit made from fermented barley, sweet potatoes, buckwheat, rice and the like).

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