Where
Alaturka
12 Bussorah Street
6294 0304
Who’s behind it
For many, entering a restaurant business is an act of passion. For Nafiz Bozkurt, who migrated here from Turkey in 2006, the need goes deeper: it’s a means to survive. After all, he moved to Singapore with his Singaporean wife knowing that his years of experience and qualifications as an architect are not recognised here.
“I wasn’t even considered the same as a polytechnic graduate,” he says. “There are so few things that I can do – and starting a restaurant is one of them.”
It was then that he decided to take over Alaturka from its previous owner. “I had no passion, no nice story about my mother’s cooking,” he admits. “Because for me, it was about keeping myself alive.”
Alaturka
12 Bussorah Street
6294 0304
Who’s behind it
For many, entering a restaurant business is an act of passion. For Nafiz Bozkurt, who migrated here from Turkey in 2006, the need goes deeper: it’s a means to survive. After all, he moved to Singapore with his Singaporean wife knowing that his years of experience and qualifications as an architect are not recognised here.
“I wasn’t even considered the same as a polytechnic graduate,” he says. “There are so few things that I can do – and starting a restaurant is one of them.”
It was then that he decided to take over Alaturka from its previous owner. “I had no passion, no nice story about my mother’s cooking,” he admits. “Because for me, it was about keeping myself alive.”
Nafiz Bozkurt, owner of Alaturka. Credit: Nicholas Ee for Michelin Guide Singapore
Armed with little more than a natural palate for Turkish cuisine and the deep-seated need to survive, Nafiz set about trying to make it work.
It was rough at first, not knowing the ropes of the business. “The restaurant was nearly two-years-old when I took over but there was all these empty tables,” he says. “I cared about my business so I did everything from sweeping the floor to doing the dishes. And when you care about your profession, success comes naturally. I sincerely believe that.”
That belief has borne fruit. Business is brisk with a steady stream of regulars. After nearly a decade of running the restaurant, Alaturka was conferred Bib Gourmand status in the 2016 Michelin Guide Singapore.
It was rough at first, not knowing the ropes of the business. “The restaurant was nearly two-years-old when I took over but there was all these empty tables,” he says. “I cared about my business so I did everything from sweeping the floor to doing the dishes. And when you care about your profession, success comes naturally. I sincerely believe that.”
That belief has borne fruit. Business is brisk with a steady stream of regulars. After nearly a decade of running the restaurant, Alaturka was conferred Bib Gourmand status in the 2016 Michelin Guide Singapore.
How it got its name
The name Alaturka means 'in traditional Turkish style'. It originates from the era of the Ottoman Empire and used to describe the roots of musical and cultural concepts. It stands in contrast with 'Alafranga' which denotes Western culture. In the restaurant context, Nafiz makes sure the food is traditionally Turkish as far as possible while maintaining accessible price points.
(Related: 8 fascinating facts you may not know about the Michelin Man)
The name Alaturka means 'in traditional Turkish style'. It originates from the era of the Ottoman Empire and used to describe the roots of musical and cultural concepts. It stands in contrast with 'Alafranga' which denotes Western culture. In the restaurant context, Nafiz makes sure the food is traditionally Turkish as far as possible while maintaining accessible price points.
What to order
The breads, a Turkish staple is a must-have. There are two types: the ekmek ($3) – a thick but fluffy sourdough flat bread as well as the lavas ($4.40) – a thin balloon-like bread topped with sesame seeds. These are eaten with dips like hummus ($8) and babaganoush ($8.50) – the two dishes that the Michelin Guide inspectors recommend.
The breads, a Turkish staple is a must-have. There are two types: the ekmek ($3) – a thick but fluffy sourdough flat bread as well as the lavas ($4.40) – a thin balloon-like bread topped with sesame seeds. These are eaten with dips like hummus ($8) and babaganoush ($8.50) – the two dishes that the Michelin Guide inspectors recommend.
The ekmek served with hummus. Credit: Nicholas Ee for Michelin Guide Singapore
Key to the bread quality is freshness. “It’s a simple thing. Compare one-day-old bread with fresh ones. It tastes different” says Nafiz. “We bake the bread fresh each service and don’t serve bread we bake for lunch at dinner – that’s nearly half the enjoyment gone.”
The karisik kebab ($44) is another to look out for. It’s a huge sharing platter meant for two or three which includes a sampling of various cuts of meat from lamb racks to kebabs cooked over a charcoal fire. It comes with a side of salad as well as rice.
The karisik kebab ($44) is another to look out for. It’s a huge sharing platter meant for two or three which includes a sampling of various cuts of meat from lamb racks to kebabs cooked over a charcoal fire. It comes with a side of salad as well as rice.
Nicholas Ee for Michelin Guide Singapore
Much of the success of these dishes, says Nafiz, is the use of a charcoal grill to cook the meats and seasoning them with authentic Turkish spices. The ones he prefers aren’t available from the suppliers here, so he brings them in from a specific spice shop in a market all the way from his hometown of Izmir.
“We don’t get these from a Turkish supplier because they bring it in bulk,” explains Nafiz. “When it comes in bulk, the freshness is really not there.”
These spices include sumac – a dried and ground berry with a lemony flavour, isot pepper a type of capsicum and surprise surprise, chilli flakes. These flakes are grown in Turkey and processed in a way that keeps the natural chilli oils (and hence, flavour) intact. Asian chilli flakes meanwhile are dry, making them unsuitable for Turkish cooking.
“We try to make it as authentic as home cooked Turkish food,” he says. Spoken like a true restauranteur, even if he started out as a means to survive.
Recommended reading: View all the Behind The Bib stories here
“We don’t get these from a Turkish supplier because they bring it in bulk,” explains Nafiz. “When it comes in bulk, the freshness is really not there.”
These spices include sumac – a dried and ground berry with a lemony flavour, isot pepper a type of capsicum and surprise surprise, chilli flakes. These flakes are grown in Turkey and processed in a way that keeps the natural chilli oils (and hence, flavour) intact. Asian chilli flakes meanwhile are dry, making them unsuitable for Turkish cooking.
“We try to make it as authentic as home cooked Turkish food,” he says. Spoken like a true restauranteur, even if he started out as a means to survive.
Recommended reading: View all the Behind The Bib stories here
