Morning Glory

It's strictly breakfast and brunch only at this Little Italy spot, which isn't however just for the bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. The playful décor may look feminine with its plush booths, pink-and-green marble floors and a champagne vending machine, but look closer and you'll find a few skulls and dark touches. Inside, it's always jumping and there's a wait, so plan ahead.
It's all about familiar-seeming favorites and of-the-moment meals—hello, avocado toast and shakshuka. Fluffy soufflé pancakes are worth waking up for, and fried rice with pork belly plus two eggs with runny yolks is a great riff on tradition. The dirty scallop slice is a thick rectangle of potatoes au gratin fried to golden, then doused in rich sausage gravy for next-level enjoyment.