Criollo

Chefs Enrique Olvera and Luis Arellano are the culinary forces behind this magical oasis that is also part of a guest house listed as a UNESCO heritage. Entirely outdoors, the dining room is a straight-edged work of smooth concrete and a canopy of trees and Edison bulbs stretched over handsome wood tables set with flickering candles. Chirping birds and burning incense add to the romance. Serving only a tasting menu, the kitchen leans on traditional Oaxacan recipes and local ingredients. A warm cheese croquette starts the meal with total fireworks, followed by a smooth tamal set in a bold shrimp-infused mole coloradito and, later, excellent tempura fish tacos. Desserts are refreshing, as in the pineapple nicuatole with passionfruit and mango sorbet.