Ghadira Bay, also called Mellieha Bay, is Malta's longest sandy beach. The name refers to Mellieha. The town with its ornate parish church dominates the skyline, high above the sea on the southern side. The bay is shaped like a wide horseshoe, whose northern end is marked by the Marfa Ridge. Everyone who is en route to Chirkewwa Port and the ferry to Gozo has to cross this line of high hills. The stark, rocky landscape is part of the appeal of Mellieha and the surrounding area and it has created some particularly varied and attractive beaches.
We begin with the most famous beach in this region, which is also the largest. The shallow, crystal clear water of Ghadira Bay makes it perfect for children, and it is very accessible. A road runs right around the bay at just above sea level, before climbing away from the beach. Once you have parked, this expanse of sand will be at your feet in just a few minutes. With views over the bay in a setting with virtually no building development, the unspoiled countryside creates a sense of well-being. The natural beauty of this place is further enhanced by the Ghadira Nature Reserve, which is immediately behind the beach. Dozens of species of migratory birds journeying to Africa find food and rest in this conservation area. The reserve covers seven hectares and can be visited from September to May. It is striking how nature and human activity are able to thrive so close together. That is very noticeable here.
Motorised water sports are kept clearly separate from the areas where people relax quietly on the beach. That may have something to do with the shallow water in the bay, which means that there is virtually no surf. Children can play safely with all kinds of games and beach activities extending quite far out to sea. There is the usual buzz of people enjoying themselves, but it is spread across a very large area. In the warmest water on the beach, babies can enjoy their first seaside experience in comfort, under the watchful eye of their parents. The accessibility of Ghadira Beach means that it is certainly suitable for all ages. If you are looking for a more private beach with a remote vibe, there is no need to panic - there are plenty of these in the area too.
Less than two kilometres away, across the Marfa Ridge, are the small sandy beaches of Armier Bay and Little Armier Beach. These both offer beautiful views of the nearby island of Comino. They are peaceful beaches, perfect for sunbathers who can always visit Tortuga, a pretty restaurant in Little Armier Beach, if they feel the need for something to eat or drink. If you prefer a more adventurous setting with dramatic rock formations, Paradise Bay is only a few miles from here. To access that beach, enclosed in a delightful cove, you do have to descend some steep stairs. You can sunbathe on the sand beside the water or visit one of the terraces higher up where beach beds are available for hire. In the distance, the Gozo ferries punctuate the day as they sail to and from the island. Less than a minute along a narrow path through a rugged landscape, there is a secluded viewpoint overlooking the photogenic rocky outcrop that gave this beach its name.
To the southwest of Mellieha and just beyond the Mellieha Ridge are two more remarkable sandy beaches surrounded by a very rural, unspoiled area. These are set within a protected nature reserve with very little development, creating a very secluded and serene atmosphere. Golden Bay is one of the most beautiful and comfortable sandy beaches in Malta. However, the nearby beach of Ghajn Tuffieha Bay can only be accessed via a long, steep staircase which is a very memorable experience. An elegant double swing at the top invites visitors to sway gently back and forth and let their cares float away. Even if they don’t, adults will still find that this swing against a panoramic seascape creates the memorable photographic backdrop for Instagram. So it is hardly surprising that people often wait in line for some time here.
Once you have captured those wonderful memories, it is time to return to your base in Mellieha. The old town is never more than 15 minutes by car from the beaches we have mentioned. In the center of Mellieha, the square in front of the imposing parish church is the perfect place to chill. Local residents clearly appreciate it too. The cosy, genuinely relaxed atmosphere here is all the evidence you need. You do have to climb some stairs from the main street to access the square and church, which are situated at a higher level. Nevertheless, the effort will be rewarded with a view of the bay and the Marfa Ridge. Santa Marija Church, built atop Malta's most important pilgrimage site, is definitely worth a visit. Despite its authentic-looking baroque style, it was built in the19th century and completed in the last century.
After an aperitif in the square, you can have dinner there or wander back down to the main street where there are various eateries, one of which is Commando. This restaurant has a spacious and elegantly appointed terrace, serving locally inspired food such as tagliatelle with a rabbit ragout, as well as delicious veggie and vegan dishes like roasted cauliflower with tahini and pomegranate. After a superb day at the beach, a fine wine list consisting of of carefully selected Maltese wines will complete the experience. A little further on is Rebekah's, a restaurant in a 200-year-old former farmhouse with a central courtyard that creates the perfect atmosphere for a meal. Chef and owner Andrew Vella offers a varied menu including local fish lampuki with boulangère potatoes, tomatoes, capers and green olive sauce, as well as dishes based on selected imported ingredients like fine veal with green beans and truffle sauce. The reasonably priced wine list will make your visit all the more enjoyable.
Head photo: Ghajn Tuffieha Bay, Ghajn Tuffieha Watchtower and Riviera Beach ©Zoltan Gabor/iStock
