21 October 2025
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So, what sets Qormi bread apart from other Maltese breads? How is it made, eaten and – above all – experienced? A chef with a genuine passion for this staple and the concept of terroir joined us in our search for answers.
As in many other Mediterranean countries, in Malta bread is a daily source of sustenance and pleasure. Yet Qormi bread is more than that. "It's part of Malta's culinary heritage for a variety of reasons," explains André Borg. As a chef and co-founder of the restaurant Terroir in the centre of the centuries-old village of Attard – halfway between the medieval city of Mdina and the capital Valletta – he has more than a passing interest in the subject. "As a little boy, I learned about the value of this bread early on. Without fully understanding how exceptional it was, I loved it when my grandmother gave me a piece of bread with some olive oil and tomatoes on it. I just thought it was really delicious. As a young lad, I had no idea that this bread was unique. Only later did I understand that it is actually a delicacy."
From a very early age, André Borg developed an interest in all things that tasted delicious and refined. The extraordinary flavour profile of Qormi bread had already impressed itself upon his palate at a young age, almost unconsciously. After finishing his studies in Malta, he ventured to London, where he gained invaluable experience in several Gordon Ramsay restaurants, climbing the ranks from commis to chef. There, he delved into culinary techniques and broadened his understanding of foods, including bread. This sharpened his tasting skills as a fundamental aspect of this artisanal craft. "I became increasingly aware of how the surrounding environment – the terroir – influences the ultimate quality of a product." The knowledge and insights André Borg gained in the UK would prove pivotal for his career. When he returned to Malta to open a restaurant with his brother-in-law Niki, the name was an obvious choice. "For us, the name Terroir perfectly encapsulates our vision. I believe the concept of terroir precisely expresses the uniqueness of our cuisine."
Can the concept of terroir, in the broader sense of the word, also be used to describe the unique, highly local identity of Qormi bread? "I am no historian, and I cannot easily explain why this bread acquired its character and renown in this town of all places," says André Borg. "What I do know is that the bread has been baked here since the 16C, and perhaps even earlier." Indeed, in the time of the Knights of Malta, Qormi was known as Casal Fornaro – the 'town of bakeries' – a name it still proudly carries today. "What makes Qormi bread unique is the way it is baked: quickly, in a scorching wood-fired oven on stone. You could almost say the bakers of Qormi held the patent on this technique."
People travelled from far and wide to buy this bread. Its name and fame likely encouraged young bakers to settle here, further increasing supply and spreading its renown. "The popularity of this bread is most likely explained by its distinctive flavour profile, in which those ovens play a crucial role. After all, only four ingredients are needed: wheat flour, yeast, water and salt – none of which are special in themselves. It is the wood-fired ovens, blazing at 400-500°C, that give the bread its character. On their stone floors, a loaf bakes in just four minutes. You can compare it to a Neapolitan pizza, which is often baked in under 100 seconds. That intense heat gives the bread its almost blackened crust, while keeping the inside soft. Think of the charred, airy raised outer rim and the soft, juicy centre of a Neapolitan pizza."
Qormi bread, with its striking appearance, may indeed look unusual to the uninitiated. "The experience lies in the contrast between the extremely crisp crust, with its slightly nutty or caramel-like bitterness, and the crumb, replete with air pockets and bearing the delicate allure of a soufflé." Its sensational, bold flavour and distinctive texture result from a short, intense bake, but natural yeast and slow fermentation also contribute to the unique experience. "It is a multi-sensory bread that people appreciate in many different ways. Some ask the baker for a loaf baked close to the flames for a crust with more pronounced charring. Others prefer to eat it straight out of the oven because that's when it tastes best to them. I have to admit that even buying the bread gives me a special feeling. Because of its unusual aroma, the experience actually begins at the bakery. The aromas are unlike anything else. Think of a coffee roastery where the unmistakable fragrance of beans lingers in the air. Anyone who can appreciate distinctive aromas like that will also revel in those of Qormi bread."
The extraordinary fragrance quickly activates the salivary glands and whets the appetite. It stimulates all the senses. With its powerful, vibrant flavour, its exceptionally soft, almost sensual texture, delicate smoky nuances and rugged golden brown to black appearance, it stands apart – not only from other Maltese breads, but from breads everywhere. At once rustic, expressive, powerful, and elegant, it is truly one of a kind.
Calling Qormi bread a unique terroir bread is no exaggeration if the term is to be understood in its broadest sense. In the world of wine, terroir refers not only to the soil but also to the specific climate conditions and the artisanal techniques that are particular to a place. By that definition, Qormi bread certainly qualifies: the use of those ovens, which is a technique steeped in centuries of tradition, is inseparable from its character. It is not possible to bake Qormi bread in a modern gas or electric oven. The wood fire, the extreme heat, the direct baking on stone and the natural yeasts all shape the final product. Only a handful of bakers are active in Qormi today.
Do they all make exactly the same bread? "Essentially, they produce bread with the same identity because they use the same refined technique and high-quality ingredients. What might differ, for example, is the type of yeast they use. Each time, they use part of the old yeast in the new dough in order to guarantee a consistent flavour profile. There can be subtle differences between the breads because the temperature is not controlled by a thermostat but rather by the type and amount of wood used. Therefore, small differences in nuance can occur as a result of the artisanal nature of the baking process for this type of bread. And loaves that are baked in very large ovens will also differ in taste and colour depending on whether they are baked closer to or further away from the wood fire. This aspect also makes this type of bread so exceptional."
In Malta, as in so many other cultures, bread is synonymous with abundance and hospitality – something tangible and nourishing that brings people together. This is particularly true in Qormi, where this specific bread also symbolises traditional artisanal techniques and knowledge passed down from generation to generation over centuries. So, what is the proper way to savour this bread? "For me, "savour" is indeed the right word because this bread has all the hallmarks of a delicacy. I always taste the bread first on its own to enjoy all its unique characteristics. With some fine olive oil on a thick slice of bread, topped with olives, tomato or anchovies you get an extraordinary combination. As an accompaniment to a meal, or with cheese or charcuterie, it also brings an extra dimension. In any case," André Borg reflects, "each time I eat Qormi bread, I taste tradition, craftsmanship, passion, dedication and – and, yes, terroir."
