Le GV in Sliema, one MICHELIN Star
Cured amberjack with preserved fennel, sea urchins and pink grapefruit sabayon
Le GV stole the show at the unveiling of the MICHELIN Guide Malta 2025, claiming its very first Star. The rooftop restaurant's elegant decor is evocative of the Orient Express, and chefs Andrew Borg and David Tanti carry that spirit into every dish, taking your taste buds on a journey with their creative approach to international flavours. This fish dish, in particular, whisked me away to a seaside terrace in Italy.
Delicate slices of the raw amberjack were perfectly complemented by grilled Sicilian grapefruit and lightly marinated, fermented fennel that retained a pleasant crunch. A sea urchin cream added a touch of silky brininess. Finally, a delectable grapefruit zabaglione was poured straight from the pan into the centre of my plate to bring all those nuances together… I simply could not get enough!
AYU in Gzira, Bib Gourmand
Lebanese arayes
"We recreate dishes that we have discovered on our travels, keeping things as authentic as possible so that diners who have visited those places can relive the memories." These are the words of Anthony Scicluna, one of the driving forces behind Bib Gourmand AYU, featured earlier this year in a video on our website (watch it again here). This is a restaurant with a soul, a place that makes you forget you are in Gzira. I vividly remember being transported to Lebanon…
I was served a pita – the traditional round flatbread – topped with lightly spiced lamb that was treated almost like a burger. Two small bowls accompanied it; one with yogurt and the other with a vibrant harissa – delicious dips for the pita. This is the kind of simple, honest dish that I truly relish.
Risette in Valletta
Ravioli with locally produced ricotta, sage and black truffle
Risette is one of three new entries in the MICHELIN Guide Malta 2025. Steve Scicluna's cooking focuses on a few key elements that are packed with flavour. His no-nonsense dishes emphasise the intrinsic quality of the main ingredients. This Italian-inspired standout, which I had here this year, is a prime example.
What struck me right away was the beautiful plating. Yet, as always, the proof of the pudding is in the eating – and the chef delivered brilliantly. The ravioli were beautifully elastic and generously filled with exceptional local ricotta. They were topped with a creamy butter and black truffle sauce, with subtle notes of sage adding gentle herbal depth. A real explosion of flavour!
ION Harbour by Simon Rogan in Valletta, two MICHELIN Stars
Red snapper with chamomile and vinegar sauce
To experience the pinnacle of Maltese fine dining, the fourth floor of Iniala Harbour House is the place to go. At ION Harbour, chef Oli Marlow channels Simon Rogan's farm-to-fork philosophy with remarkable finesse. Local ingredients take centre stage in dishes that may be intricate but deliver a refined sense of harmony in every bite – therein lies the magic.
Flawlessly grilled to order, red snapper from the southern waters of Malta was showcased in all its glory – with perfectly crisp skin. The exceptional fish was elevated to sublime heights with a deceptively simple, yet intensely flavoursome prawn and vinegar sauce. A potato focaccia with olive oil produced from Sicily's Tonda Iblea cultivar completed this enticing minimalist celebration of the rich bounty Malta produces.
Fernandõ Gastrotheque in Sliema, one MICHELIN Star
Yuzu ganache with bay leaf and olive oil
When Hiram Cassar took over as head chef at Fernandõ Gastrotheque in late 2024, that was my cue to return to this MICHELIN-starred spot. I was pleased to find that he has kept the restaurant's signature style alive, emphasising aesthetics and complex flavours. No unnecessary showmanship here – just a few carefully chosen ingredients transformed into captivating dishes. The chef's creative touch truly shone through in the dessert.
Soft yuzu ice cream, bursting with the fruit's characteristic bright citrus tang, crowned a yuzu panna cotta in which white chocolate provided that little extra sweetness. Two thin, leaf-shaped biscuits lent both a refined crunch and a graceful visual detail. To elevate the dish further, a judicious drizzle of olive oil was added at the table. What a finale!
