In Hong Kong’s fine dining scene, Godenya shines as a rare and unforgettable gem. Tucked away in a bustling Central alley, this intimate hideaway is easy to miss if you’re not looking for it. At Godenya, the experience revolves around sake, inviting guests to savour the subtle art of pairing sake with exquisitely crafted dishes. Each course is thoughtfully matched with sake served at just the right temperature, including rare selections that are nearly impossible to find elsewhere. Here, sake truly takes center stage, creating a dining journey that is both refined and memorable.
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In 2023, Godenya was awarded with its first MICHELIN star, retaining the honour the following year. Chef Shinya Goshima, the winner of the Sommelier Award that same year, felt profoundly encouraged. Inspired by this recognition, he now feels even more driven to share the elegance of sake with a global audience.
We had the opportunity to speak to inspectors, who shared their experience at Godenya, why the restaurant has captivated them, and the dishes that left a lasting impression.
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Arrival
Nestled in a small alley between Kau U Fong and Wellington Street in Central, Godenya is situated in a spot most people wouldn’t typically explore. The restaurant is discreetly hidden, with no visible signage on the exterior, almost as if it’s the back entrance of another shop.
"Its doorway just has a small Japanese plaque and a metal gate. I remember using Google Maps to find it, but I still had to walk around a few times to make sure I was in the right place. I’d been to low-key places before, but nothing this unmarked and subtle."
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“Inside, the décor embraces a raw, unfinished look, with exposed walls and visible fire hoses, feeling almost like dining in a cave. Seating is limited: a 130-year-old Japanese cypress counter faces the open kitchen, along with a small two-person table and a private room for up to eight guests. The space is accented by simple wooden furnishings — tables, doors, and cabinets — striking a balance between rustic charm and stylish character.”
The Meal
“When Godenya first opened, it quickly sparked a lot of buzz. Reservations were difficult to secure, and what initially drew me to the restaurant was its uncompromising commitment to pairing every dish with sake. This level of dedication is rare; most restaurants give diners the choice of whether to pair with alcohol, catering to various preferences. Godenya’s approach, however, requires sake pairings for every course, a decision that might turn away guests who don’t drink — but they seem unbothered by that, and I find their conviction admirable.”
As settling in, the diner will notice the chef's collection of ceramics, with small vases holding delicate flowers on each table. The menu also features a map of Japan, highlighting the origin of each ingredient.
The nine-course menu, including somen noodles and dessert, is particularly special in that each course is paired with a different sake, with details on the alcohol content, production year, and serving temperature.
“One unforgettable dish for me was ‘Ayu with Roe (Sweet Fish), Chestnut, Winged Beans, and Taro Stem, Shiso’. The fish is expertly deboned except for the head and tail, with roe carefully placed on top and a creamy chestnut purée filling the inside. Served in a homemade bonito broth, this dish offers an incredible texture and delicate flavours that meld beautifully with taro stems, fried shiso leaves, and winged beans. It was paired with a 46°C Junmai sake, KOMAGURA from Fukuoka. The chef’s meticulous attention to serving temperature, noted on the menu for each pairing, enhances the sake’s presentation at its optimal state.”
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“While each pairing was memorable, a true standout for me was the first sake, ‘ISENO SHIROKI (Mie) Junmai Nama Sparkling 2021-22’. This lightly sparkling sake, with its fragrant tropical fruit notes and balanced acidity, made an ideal opening pairing. It complemented the sweetness of Botan-ebi (botan shrimp) and Shiro-ebi (white shrimp), as well as the muscat and Kyoho grapes in the dish, perfectly harmonising the fruity elements of both the sake and the course.”
Conclusion
“What impressed me most about Godenya is their deep expertise in sake. These sakes are rare and hard to find on the market; for example, ISENO SHIROKI (Mie) Junmai Nama Sparkling 2021-22 is almost always sold out.”
“Equally remarkable is their meticulous approach to pairing. Unlike most restaurants, where chefs and sommeliers play separate roles, here the chef is also a certified sake master. Each pairing takes into account not only the sake’s alcohol content, polishing ratio, and flavour profile but also its precise serving temperature. The aim is to create the perfect harmony between sake and dish — sometimes pairing the sake to the food, and at other times crafting the food to suit the sake — a rare experience that’s hard to find elsewhere.”
Tips from Inspectors
1. As noted on their reservation system, Godenya is not suitable for those who dislike sake or are unwilling to try it. Additionally, the restaurant may not be ideal for those with multiple food dislikes or allergies, as the set menu frequently incorporates over 30 ingredients, including a wide range of seafood (fish, prawns, crab) served both cooked and raw.2. Be sure to reserve well in advance, as seating is extremely limited.
3. Arriving early is recommended, as the entrance can be hard to find — try to get there at least 15 minutes ahead.
4. With limited parking and sake served, it's best not to drive.
5. For a more immersive experience, reserve a counter seat to interact with the chef. While the chef speaks some English, a translation device or Japanese-speaking friend can enrich the experiences.
