Dining Out 3 minutes 31 August 2018

Glorious Cuisine: Dai Pai Dong Upgraded

Good food does not have to be expensive. The MICHELIN Guide Bib Gourmand Restaurants was created to allow everyone to eat well without spending more than HK$400.

Sham Shui Po is the poorest area in Hong Kong. Most of the eateries there offer more economic dining options. Among them is Glorious Cuisine, an establishment by Chan Kuen and her family more than four decades earlier. It was originally a dai pai dong, an open-air food stall constructed with metal plates on the street side on Shek Kip Mei Street. Eighteen years ago, Chan passed the joint onto son-in-law Hong Po-Ming, and the restaurant was on its way of transformation.
Glorious Cuisine's owner Hong Po-Ming  (Photo Credit: Wong Kin Fung)
Glorious Cuisine's owner Hong Po-Ming (Photo Credit: Wong Kin Fung)

Lesson Learned from Youth

“I started out helping my family selling poultry in the wet market. I was a complete outsider to the dining industry,” Hong recalled about the time when he had just took over Glorious Cuisine. “And because of that, I had no idea how this whole game worked, from kitchen to the front of the house to the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department.

I was young then. When I thought I was right, I would insist on my point till the end. What I didn’t know was that team work was everything in the kitchen. It could only take conflict with someone in the team to cause the whole group to leave. The waiting staff took off without a word as soon as they felt things didn’t shake out their way.

As for the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department, the firmer we stood, the more frequent they sent penalties our way. We cater to the local community, and a dish didn’t bring a fortune to its accounts. Many customers ordered several bottles of beer, a dish or two on the side, and stayed here until we closed. The revenue we got couldn’t cover all the fines. It was a dire situation to say the least.”

Something to Prove

But the jeopardy brought out the toughest of him. “Just about everyone look down on me, expecting the end of me, and the same for Glorious Cuisine under my hands. I told myself: it was my first business. I needed to prove myself to other people. I wanted to hang on and fight to my last breath,” Hong said.

Based on this stubbornness, he took the first step to revolutionise Glorious Cuisine. At the same time, SARS hit Hong Kong, and that was a blessing in disguise to Hong. With the economy reaching rock bottom, the public avoided higher-end restaurants and turned to dai pai dongs. Glorious Cuisine received an overwhelming reaction from the media coverage about its fresh squid. And all of a sudden, its clientele extended to the white collars from other districts. Hong came to the realisation that if he was to keep these customers with greater spending power, he had to increase the standard of the food.

Chicken in first draw soy sauce. (Photo Credit: Wong Kin Fung)
Chicken in first draw soy sauce. (Photo Credit: Wong Kin Fung)
Hitting the Market Again

Hong went back to his roots, using the network at the market he built over the years to get a hand on premium seafood such as prawns, shellfish and various types of fish. In addition, he hired a chef who had worked at Lei Garden to take charge of the kitchen. He himself filled all other roles the restaurant required – server, receptionist, stock manager, seafood buyer all wrapped in one.
Prawn-stuffed yau char kwai is a Glorious original. Traditional fried dough is stuffed with fresh prawn paste, creating crunchy and springy textures on different sides. It makes for a great match to beer. (Photo Credit: Wong Kin Fung)
Prawn-stuffed yau char kwai is a Glorious original. Traditional fried dough is stuffed with fresh prawn paste, creating crunchy and springy textures on different sides. It makes for a great match to beer. (Photo Credit: Wong Kin Fung)
“I have a soft spot for poultry because of my family background, and I have access to the best chicken. For this reason, I had to come up with a signature chicken dish for Glorious Cuisine. Chicken in soy sauce was a good idea. I use fresh chicken from Longgang and pair it with the first draw soy sauce from local producer Tai Ma. It is 20% to 30% more expensive than the first draw soy sauces made by other brands, but its rich umami works so nicely on the chicken. It really justifies the cost,” Hong said. The chicken has a springy quality, while the soy sauce carries a subtle caramelised aroma.

Hog maw soup with Manila clams and pepper is another painstaking delight. The broth is the result of pork bones cooked for four hours with black and white pepper. The Manila clams are clear of sand, unlike its Chinese counterpart. The pepper adds fragrance and pungency, which accentuates the clams’ sweetness and the smooth hog maw.
Hog maw soup with Manila clams and pepper (Photo Credit: Wong Kin Fung)
Hog maw soup with Manila clams and pepper (Photo Credit: Wong Kin Fung)
“All the ingredients I buy are top notch, and I can’t stand the cooks turning these great produce into rubbish to serve the customers. Therefore, I keep a close eye on the kitchen’s production, and watch the food passing by me with detail. I can’t wait for the customers to complain and then find a solution. I’m taking all the precaution I need,” Hong told us about his effort to improve the food quality.

“As soon as I get some free time, I go to Mainland China to find inspiration. If I come across a nice dish, I’d tell my chef.” Dishes such as roasted-to-order suckling pig were born until such circumstances.
Glorious Cuisine’s dining space is evolving from unassuming dai pai dong to a decent-looking bistro.
Glorious Cuisine’s dining space is evolving from unassuming dai pai dong to a decent-looking bistro.
With the food amassing a good deal of patrons, Hong also realised that it had been a decade since the last time the dining space was renovated. So he put in two million dollars to give the restaurant a makeover. The Glorious Cuisine now has gone a long way from its dai pai dong origin. It looks the part of a comfortable bistro: the tables and cushioned chairs are laid out tidily. The wall was painted with shimmery silver. It’s as well-lit and clean as other restaurant. Even better, it doesn’t charge any service.

Everything Hong did finally pays off, as Glorious Cuisine was selected as a Bib Gourmand Restaurant. He was caught by surprise and joy.

“I’m happy that the years of effort finally got some recognition. With the award comes the pressure to keep up our performance. We need to be careful and put in extra work for this year.”

This article was written by Wong Yuk Yu and translated by Vincent Leung. Click here to read the original version of this story.

Dining Out

Keep Exploring - Stories we think you will enjoy reading

Select check-in date
Rates in USD for 1 night, 1 guest