Dining Out 1 minute 29 September 2017

Yau Yuen Siu Tsui: A Taste of Nostalgia

Good food doesn't have to be expensive. The Bib Gourmand rating exists to recognise friendly establishments that serve good food under HK$300.

“People like us from Shaanxi are very different from the Cantonese. Our daily lives revolve around noodles and dumplings, not rice,” Mrs. Yip, the owner from Yau Yuen Siu Tsui said.

Mrs. Yip got married and came to Hong Kong in 2000. As diverse as the local restaurant scene was, she couldn’t find a taste of home that she missed dearly. “You can find 30 to 40 kinds of noodles in Shaanxi. The simplest meal we have is nothing more than a bit of garlic, soy sauce, chilli powder and black vinegar on the noodles, with a splash of oil to finish.”

Her cravings were a blessing for Hong Kong diners, as she decided to open Yau Yuen Siu Tsui on Ferry Street selling Biang Biang noodles, the household favourite in the Northwest Chinese province. As if its name isn’t curious enough, the dish is also referred to as “belt noodles”, because every noodle is made wide and long like a belt. The noodles are made with bread flour in small batches to keep them fresh and springy. The dough is kneaded twice with half an hour of resting time in between.

There is a saying in Shaanxi that well-kneaded Biang Biang noodles are like trained housewives. Time and effort are the essential ingredients of their development.

Wide and flat Biang Biang noodles
Wide and flat Biang Biang noodles
The quality of Mrs. Yip’s noodles didn’t go unnoticed. The joint’s success was proven by its move to a much larger location with 40 seats, doubling the amount compared to its previous address. The Biang Biang noodles also come with greater variety here, accompanied by items such as seaweed, lettuce, wood ear fungus, as well as Mrs. Yip’s specialties: pork soft bone braised with more than ten spices, dumplings stuffed with fennel, mutton, or garlic chive and beef, and last but not least, sliced donkey meat cooked with master stock, a native delicacy imported from Shaanxi.
A traditional dish of sliced donkey meat
A traditional dish of sliced donkey meat
The Biang Biang noodles arrive shiny, nicely coated with oil. Then comes the final task for diners – stirring the contents of the bowl thoroughly, until the condiment sticks to every bit of the noodles. The result is highly rewarding. The long, thick and bouncy noodle sheet are coated with a deeply enticing sauce. Patrons can also choose the level of spiciness to taste. If you’re impressed enough to return, explore Yau Yuen Siu Tsui’s long list of noodle options, which include Shaanxi specials “Stick noodles” and “Whistle noodles", noodles with fried egg, cold noodles with sesame sauce, cumin fried noodles, buckwheat noodles with soup and more.
A peek into the 40-seater restaurant
A peek into the 40-seater restaurant
Mrs. Yip was delighted to find out Yau Yuen Siu Tsui is chosen as a Bib Gourmand Restaurant. “It’s an important recognition which will spread our name to more people. Every year after the selections of the MICHELIN Guide are announced, there are many newcomers who come to try our food. That made us more confident when we were deciding to move to a bigger shop.”

RELATED: See more Bib Gourmand-related stories

This article was written by Leung Choi and translated by Vincent Leung. Click here to read the original version of the story.

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