Sushi Tonari means ‘sushi next door’, and indeed Tachigui Sushi Tonari is tucked away next to its flagship restaurant. The intimate space, quick turnover and experience of the youthful staff achieve a comfortable informality. Ordering is refreshingly casual, too: requesting one piece at a time is fine. The prevailing theme is ‘vinegar and sushi’. Rice seasoned with rice vinegar harmonises beautifully with the oil of the fish. Reservations, orders and billing are all managed on a digital system. Standing and eating, Edo’s street-stall dining culture, updated for the modern era.