Not surprisingly for a restaurant whose name means ‘the nose’, aroma is the unifying theme here. The house is redolent of ingredients in season and the fragrances of fresh cooking. An amuse-gueule named ‘Hakoniwa’ is, as the name suggests, like a miniature seasonal garden in a little box. Scattering the blessings of Wakayama, Le Nez carries the hometown breezes of that prefecture. Nanko plums, for example, are a speciality of the chef’s birthplace of Minabe. The aroma of meat, adroitly grilled over Kishu-binchotan, wafts on the air and beguiles the nose.