Tucked on the corner of Houston St and Allen St, Kisa (named after kisa sikdangs—casual diners in Korea frequented by taxi and bus drivers) is the highly anticipated sophomore project from the team behind MICHELIN Bib Gourmand C as in Charlie: David JoonWoo Yun, Steve Jaewoo Choi and Yong Min Kim; along with chef Simon Lee (previously of One MICHELIN Star Jua). Whereas the Bleecker Street hotspot embodies a playful fusion of Southern and Korean flavors, Kisa serves as an authentic Korean restaurant with food commonly found in actual drivers’ restaurants.
“At C as in Charlie, we aimed to convey our distinctive identity as immigrants who grew up in the South—specifically Atlanta—enjoying both Southern at school and Korean cuisine at home,” Yun says. “With Kisa, we sought to showcase our roots, heritage, and the aspects of our upbringing that we missed while living in the U.S.”
“Many casual eateries like drivers’ restaurants and mom-and-pop shops are disappearing as the older generation retires,” Yun adds. “We aspire to successfully share this casual dining concept in New York, with the hope of sparking a resurgence to the casual dining concept in Korea.”
To achieve this, the team filled the 36-seat restaurant with vintage televisions, wall-mounted fans, Korean calendars, and a coin-slot coffee machine (that dispenses complimentary coffee for those on the way out). Menus are displayed on the walls and tables to replicate the tradition of old drivers’ restaurants.
“We want our guests to feel as if they are dining in Korea,” Yun explains. “Rather than adapting our concept to fit the U.S. market, we wanted to bring a slice of Korean culture to New York, interpreted through our unique perspective.”
Inside this retro eatery, diners are presented with four simple entree choices for their “baekban” (a Korean meal served with rice, soup, and various side dishes) home-style meal—bulgogi, spicy pork, spicy squid, and bori (barley) bibimbap.
“By limiting it to four entrees, we are able to focus on delivering the best bulgogi, spicy pork, spicy squid, and bibimbap you can find in New York,” says Yun. “This also simplifies the decision-making process for our customers and ensures quick and easy service.”
On top of the entrees, each platter is accompanied by a range of seasonally rotating side dishes that are made from ingredients sourced directly from Korea. Even the kimchi is prepared from scratch, following the chef's family recipe from their hometown in North Korea before the Korean War.
“We want to showcase banchans that align with the Korean calendar,” Yun continues. “That’s why instead of merely filling the table with average side dishes, we prioritize offering high-quality and seasonal side dishes that are more than just sides.”
For dessert, guests can stop by the coin-slot coffee machine for their choice of hot chocolate, coffee, or tea.
MICHELIN Guide Pro Tip
Show up on Tuesdays or Wednesdays, 10-15 minutes before opening time (5PM) or closer to closing time (9PM) to avoid long wait times.
Expect around $32 per person for an entree, seven side side dishes, soup, and rice. Drinks will bump that total up to between $50-$60 per person, tax included.
The spicy pork is cooked on a special grill imported from Korea that naturally traps and infuses the smoke into the gochujang-marinated meat.
