Andrew Radford is a successful and much-respected restaurateur and a stalwart of the Edinburgh dining scene. He knows the local market inside-out and has had a hand to play in many of the city’s restaurants over the years, including Hansels, Atrium and Blue. He also worked as the first Head Chef on The Royal Scotsman.
Having spent over three decades running restaurants with his wife Lisa, and with their three children having reached an age where they needed to decide what to do next with their lives, the family came to the decision that they would do something together. Eldest son Ben had already chosen to make cooking his career, with time at Café St Honore and as Blue’s Head Chef under his belt; daughter Abi had studied Art & Photography and was drawn in by food photography; and youngest son Joseph had an interest in natural wines. So things naturally fell into place, with Ben guiding the kitchen team, Abi working on communications and Joseph behind the bar.
Initially, the family were looking for a small space in which they could open an intimate operation, but then they came across a characterful unused warehouse dating from the 19th century. They initially walked away due to the sheer scale of the property, but something kept drawing them back and, after several visits, they decided this was the place for them.
In 2012 the doors to Timberyard opened and it instantly became a hit with the locals. Despite its size, there was a homely, inviting feel, where guests could escape the hustle and bustle of the city. There was always a warm welcome on hand from the team, and the wood-burning stove and chunky wooden tables – crafted from old railway sleepers bought from a scrapyard in Andrew’s Royal Scotsman days – enhanced the laid-back feel.
Fast forward to today, and Joseph is now the General Manager, Ben has moved to back of house logistics and James Murray has become an integral part of The Timberyard family as the Head Chef.
A favourite spot of one the Michelin Inspectors, we asked him to tell us more about his experiences there.
Head away from the most famous and touristy spots, such as the historic Princes Street and the chic district of Stockbridge, and make your way out west towards the old Haymarket area. Here, in a semi-residential side street you’ll find Timberyard nestled amongst some interesting little shops. Arrive early for a wander – I always like to pop into the nearby Middle Eastern shop for some sweetmeats for the journey home.
I love it here [at Timberyard], as it’s so eclectic and totally unique. It also has a great sense of history, as it was originally a store for the costumes and sets for the nearby theatre. As soon as you walk in, you’re struck by how different it is from the norm; you’re not quite sure what to expect, so there’s a pleasing air of excitement and uncertainty. As the evening unfolds, you discover a somewhat magical quality to the place, which is all due to the fact that is has personality by the bucketload.
Having been to many of Andrew’s restaurants in the past, it is clear to see that he has passed his winning philosophy onto his son Ben, who is in charge of this operation. He is very forward-thinking and approaches things in a refreshingly different way. He doesn’t worry about following trends and there is a clear identity to the food, and the room itself has just as much personality as the cooking. As such, this was one of those places that I instantly fell in love with.
The experienced chef, James Murray, spent time at the Edinburgh Food Studio [now closed], and while his cooking is Scottish to the core, it’s also unique and individual, with great presentation and vivid colours. The pacing of the meal is spot-on, with the arrival of the dishes timed to perfection – and the warmth and friendliness of the service is pitched just right. Rather than standing over you the team squat down to your level and there’s a certain level of intimacy to proceedings. The team are really talking with you and not to you.
When it comes to wines, it’s the same – they start by asking you what you would like, taking time to consider your preferences instead of just recommending something from their selection straight away. The list itself is also carefully compiled, with the wines designed to complement the food while also providing a choice between the classics and more modern options, including organic and orange wines.
From the décor and the atmosphere to the food and the service, for me, this unique and very personable experience is the whole package. Ben leads by example, ensuring every guest is looked after from the minute they arrive to the moment they depart – and, as I left after my first visit, I was already planning to bring my wife and friends here for another meal. As an inspector, that’s how you know a place is special. We have about 250 meals a year, all around the world, and this is still one that stands out for me amongst all my other experiences.
