Immerse yourself in Zagreb’s history from the moment you arrive, as you check in to the Hotel Esplanade, built in 1925 for passengers visiting the city on the Orient Express.
Almost a century after it was opened, this hotel remains one of the most atmospheric in Zagreb, while dinner at the Bistrot Esplanade offers an elegant and comprehensive introduction to local dishes, all skilfully reinterpreted in contemporary style. The next day, after a good night’s sleep in one of the hotel’s comfortable and luxurious guestrooms overlooking the park, head out to explore Zagreb’s history as you spend a couple of hours strolling through the Upper Town, part of which can be reached by taking a ride on one of the world’s shortest funiculars.
A climb of just thirty metres takes you to the historic centre, with its fine architecture spanning the medieval period to the 19C. If rather make the climb, head through Stone Gate and take a photo in St Mark’s Square (home to the church of the same name) before exploring other highlights such as King Tomislav and the monument dedicated to Nikola Tesla. Other buildings from different periods can be admired near the Lotrscak Tower and along the Strossmayer Promenade where murals and street-art immortalise some of Croatia’s most famous personalities, such as Tesla, Penkala, Vucetic and Schwarz.
Given the cold winter temperatures, one of the best ways to keep warm after a walk through Zagreb’s old town is to visit the OldPilots gin distillery, where you can join a tasting and take part in a mixology class. Food-lovers might like to make their way to the Theatrium by Filho restaurant where, according to our Michelin inspectors, “the chef, who has plenty of experience in Michelin-starred restaurants, creates top-quality Mediterranean cuisine"
Continuously expanding its visitor attractions, Zagreb now offers a memorable 20-25-minute sightseeing flight over the city, during which visitors can admire the domes, belltowers, squares, parks and gardens that cover more than 20% of the city’s urban area.
After this wonderful aerial experience and your long walk around the city, the Hotel Esplanade’s spa is the perfect place to enjoy a massage or wellness treatment which will recharge your batteries and prepare you for dinner at Noel, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Zagreb. Situated near the Basilica of the Sacred Heart, this gourmet restaurant has the talented Bruno Vokal at its helm, described by the Red Guide’s inspectors as “a young chef with plenty of experience, who skilfully adapts Croatian culinary traditions to create modern and personalised dishes, all showcased on his “Green” and “Chef Experience” 6-course tasting menus.”
On your second day, head out on foot again, this time to visit the south-western section of the Lenuci Horseshoe (a U-shaped complex of squares and parks designed by the Croatian town-planner Milan Lenuci in 1882) where the attractions include the botanical gardens, Republic Square (home to the Opera House) and the Oktogon passage which will take you to the Ban Jelačić Square situated below the Kaptol district and Dolac market. The market stalls here display a colourful array of local produce and ingredients (from vegetables to meat and cheese) and are situated just a few minutes’ walk from Zagreb’s cathedral.
From this lively market teeming with food products, you can make your way towards Pod zidom street for a restorative lunch at bistrot Pod Zidom - with a same name as the street - is an attractive restaurant that serves seasonal cuisine made from ingredients purchased daily at the nearby Dolac Market. As a result, the menu here is fresh and colourful, making full use of the many specialities available in this country blessed with a long coastline, rivers, hills, mountain peaks and the dense woodland which comes into view as soon as you leave Zagreb.
These woods provide the majestic surroundings to Medvedgrad Castle, the city’s most important medieval monument, built on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain range in 1249 (the name translates as the “City of Bears”). The castle, with its old walls and towers, boasts superb views of its surrounding natural scenery and is home to the Chapel of St Philip and St Jacob, the Residential palace, brand new visitor center, and the Homeland Altar, an installation created by sculptor Kuzma Kovacic in 1944, where the eternal flame pays tribute to the many heroes who died for the freedom of the Hrvatska Republic.
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Illustration image - Pod Zidom
