Find our Inspection team's official review of Rosewood Hotel Schloss Fuschl, here. Below, one local writer on her long-anticipated return to this beautiful Austrian castle on the lake.
A few more narrow bends through the Austrian woods, then the view opens up as if a postcard has slipped in front of the car window. The eggshell-yellow, four-story tower from the 15th century sits atop its throne: a peninsula that juts towards the surreal turquoise water of Lake Fuschl. But there is hardly time to marvel. A warm welcome is already underway, as smiling staff rush out to greet me.
There are two types of guests at the new Rosewood Hotel Schloss Fuschl. Those who, like me, have visited the castle in a former iteration — and those who are visiting this most storied of all lake retreats for the very first time. But even the latter (if they’re from Austria, Germany, or within a thousand kilometers of that radius) know the basics of its story.
First built in 1461, Schloss Fuschl spent centuries as the site of legendary hunts and royal gatherings as the property of the Archbishops of Salzburg. It became a hotel in 1958, and was soon visited by international stars, actors, and politicians — from Audrey Hepburn to the Queen of Thailand to Richard Nixon. In the mid-1950s, it was the location for the iconic Sissi trilogy — one of the most successful German film franchises of all time, following the life story of the 19th-century Empress Elisabeth of Austria.
Even those Germans and Austrians who’ve never visited, then, have memories of this hotel. But before its grand reopening this summer, Schloss Fuschl spent nearly two years as a cordoned-off construction site. Its new face has been highly anticipated, and curiosity is high, including mine. There are now no fewer than six restaurants, excursions that include boat trips and hot air balloon rides, and a magnificent new spa with two pools, wellness treatments, and a hairdressing salon.
As I approach the lobby, I wonder how such a high-profile renovation might affect the charming Austrian patina that I treasure. I need not have worried. Arriving in the lobby, I find the same historic building, with its original doorways and marble staircases, its rooms leading off east to the historic tower building. The rooms, too, remain elegant and cozy, views of the lake only reemphasized through floor-to-ceiling windows. A mini-bar has been hand-painted into a natural still life by Austrian artist Marie Hartig, then stuffed full with a selection of pre-mixed cocktails from the local Farthofer distillery, Bad Ischl pastilles, Bollinger champagne, and the trendy Claze Azul tequila.
Out on the grounds, I find the same sunny spot by the lake I’ve always cherished. Only this time, as a dragonfly lands next to me on my towel and the ducks pass by with their chicks in the high sun, I consider a trip to the new outdoor kitchen on the lake. Succumbing to the temptation, I find that the panzanella made from colorful tomatoes and the mackerel ceviche are wonderfully fresh, that a finely prepared dish of Styrian shrimp is served in bite-sized buns, and that fish from Lake Fuschl is still on offer. And that it’s still from the same master fisherman, Gerhard Langmeier, who has been running the fishery within sight of the castle since 1987.
Elsewhere, diners enjoy the cuisine of Seeterrasse, where tomato with a mousse of local sheep's cheese and risotto with a piece of Ikejime Loup de Mer from the Adriatic Sea go perfectly with a glass of white wine from southern Styria. The castle wine list offers around 1,400 different wines.
The spa is perhaps the area most transformed, now covering 1,500 square meters and including a new infinity pool above the lake. But there are times too when the balance between old and new tilt towards the former. There’s the Sisi Teesalon, a beautiful homage to the Empress where small cakes from the trolley and other traditional snacks are served with champagne. Then there’s the Sisi Museum, set in the middle of the palace courtyard.
But more than anything, there’s the simple feeling of the fresh summer air flowing through the open window, and the clear night sky above this 500-year-old castle on the lake in northwest Austria. On my last night, the sound of summer rain on the water patters through an open window. In the morning, I hear the sound of chirping birds as I awake. Leaving Schloss Fuschl, I’m already nostalgic for this turquoise paradise. It's nice to know that will never change.
Illustration Image: Rosewood Schloss Fuschl © Jonathan Maloney
