The Bib Gourmand award is our way of recognising restaurants that offer good food at a great price. While all Bib Gourmands are unique in style and approach, they share the same spirit of generosity and a commitment to quality cooking. That’s why, in our new series, we’re highlighting the Michelin Inspectors' Bib of the Month. These restaurants are the bedrock of the Michelin selection, providing an affordable dining option that doesn’t skimp on precision, skill or flavour. From cosy pubs to buzzing counters, we’ve got a Bib for you.
Our Bib of the Month for July 2024 is the thoroughly likeable tipo in Edinburgh – the perfect place to add into your Fringe Festival itinerary. It’s one of four restaurants in the city operated by experienced chef and restaurateur Stuart Ralston, alongside: aizle, located inside Kimpton Charlotte Square hotel; seafood-focused LYLA; and the neighbourhood restaurant Noto, which also holds a Bib Gourmand.
Here's one of our Inspectors’ thoughts on what makes tipo such a brilliant part of the Edinburgh dining scene:
“As soon as tipo was launched, it was clear that the very astute Stuart Ralston was onto another winner. His success at Noto proved that he and his team had nailed the small plates formula that lends itself so well to reasonably priced dining. At tipo, the dishes have an Italian slant and, most importantly, are enormously enjoyable to eat. The fresh pasta is impressively well-made, lightly cooked to retain a bit of bite and full of flavour thanks to the quality accompaniments. During my visit I had the pappardelle with crab and chilli, which was wonderfully intense and had a lovely kick from the chilli. It was a great pasta dish and a great Bib Gourmand dish. I love the brightness of the room here too, which combines with high ceilings for a pleasantly airy vibe.”
To understand more about what makes tipo (and Noto) such a success, we spoke to Stuart Ralston himself.
What was the inspiration behind tipo? Had you always wanted to open an Italian restaurant at some point?
The inspiration for tipo was my Director of Operations’ love for fresh pasta. We had been talking about places we love to eat in and what was lacking in Edinburgh was a fresh pasta restaurant; coupled with a love for natural wines and relaxed eating, it really went from there. I think that when we think up new concepts, we want to build restaurants that we want to eat in ourselves. I don’t think an Italian restaurant was on the list as such, but making fresh pasta is a skill I have learnt over the years. Living and working in New York City I loved to eat out in a lot of Italian-inspired restaurants.
What can a first-time diner expect from tipo in terms of atmosphere and the style of cooking?
When you come to tipo, you will be greeted warmly by our friendly team, then shown to a light and airy dining room. We want it to feel professional but relaxed, warm and inviting. With the menu, we focus on fresh pasta prepared with a certain level of execution, but we also offer small plates that are inspired by the Mediterranean; so a few snacks, fresh sourdough focaccia, some different styles of charcuterie… really clean, fresh and vibrant food at a price point that’s affordable to all, while still using the best ingredients we can find. I find the food really unfussy and simple in essence.
What is the dish to order at tipo?
Top picks on the menu for me are the zeppole – a savoury fried choux pastry dusted in pecorino and paprika – and the lamb fritte, which is a lovely little dish of braised lamb shoulder, mint, lots of garlic and sherry vinegar dipped in anchovy emulsion. When it comes to pasta, I will always pick the crab; who would have thought I’d have two Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurants where the signature dishes are both crab-inspired!
What price range can customers expect and how are you able to keep your prices affordable?
At tipo, the price point is wherever you feel comfortable. You have the choice to spend as little or as much as you like; you can easily come in and eat 3 courses for under £30. Pasta has a low produce cost but a high labour cost so we try and balance that out with the small plates menu. Making everything in-house allows us to utilise everything, minimise waste and be able to keep prices sensible whilst still pushing a high standard of food and creativity in the kitchen.
You also own Noto in Edinburgh, which is another Bib Gourmand restaurant. Can you tell our readers a little about Noto, and why you like running multiple restaurants in the city?
I simply love Noto. It was originally opened to satisfy the more casual side of my food style, all the delicious things I love to eat and my time spent in NYC. I wanted a solid neighbourhood restaurant that was always dependable – and everyone has loved it since we opened. I love running multiple restaurants in the city because I believe my skill set is varied. I’m very comfortable in fine dining, but equally so in more casual, higher volume sites; this is due to my experience all over the world in various different styles of restaurants, from working with Gordon Ramsay at a Two Michelin Star restaurant to working in a multi-outlet hotel in Barbados. But I love all types of dining, which is the key – I’m equally passionate about all my restaurants.
How important is it to you to use Scottish ingredients at both tipo and Noto?
Using Scottish ingredients is always going to be key at my restaurants, perhaps especially so at Noto and tipo because we want to keep the price point competitive, which we can do by using local produce. If it hasn’t travelled far, the costs should be lower and the volumes more plentiful. This is where we’ve found a sustainable business model which allows us to keep that price point affordable without sacrificing any quality – my main focus is always quality.
Hero Image: Pasta at tipo (© Clair Irwin)
