On the banks of the Grosne in a town steeped in culture and heritage (abbey, national stud farm and a race course), this hostelry specialises in first-class seasonal fare: asparagus in vinaigrette, low-temperature egg and a frothy espuma of parmesan or lamb cooked two ways – the saddle is stuffed with wild garlic and the shank is prepared in a curcuma flavoured nem. Now add a fine selection of wines by the glass, a bright conservatory overlooking the river, warm, cheerful service and a good night’s sleep in the cosy guestrooms – what’s not to like?