The famous idiom about not judging a book by its cover couldn’t be more applicable than to this tortilleria-turned-tasting menu. In an empty strip mall with little around except for a brewery and a doughnut shop, Chef Emmanuel Chavez delivers a beautifully pitched and portioned experience that celebrates heirloom corn from across Mexico. His riffs on ceviche, quesadillas and gorditas are elegant to behold and even more satisfying to eat thanks, in part, to vibrant salsas and other creative sauce work. The most original and striking effort might be the black-as-night mole negro, which comes blanketed under a tortilla made from nixtamalized plantains. If you want wine, you’ll need to bring your own, as the restaurant doesn’t have a liquor license.