Invite plenty of dining companions to share heaping plates of roasted meats and rice and noodle soups at this wallet-friendly treasure. Locals stream in until the 4:00 A. M. closing bell for their great Cantonese dishes—food is clearly the focus here, over the brusque service and unfussy atmosphere. Guests’ gaze quickly pass over the imitation wooden chairs to rest on the crispy skin of suckling pig and ducks hanging in the window. These dishes are huge, so forgo the rice and opt instead for deliciously chewy noodles and barbecue meats. Incredible shrimp wontons, for instance, are delicate and thin; and the complex homemade e-fu noodles demonstrate technique and quality to a standout level that is rarely rivaled.