MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Everything about this West Loop favorite screams happy place—and scream you might have to, but the noisy din is all part of the fun at The Publican. Make your way inside to find a dining concept based on century-old public houses marked by lively political conversations mingled with beer in equal parts. Each item on the menu has its place of origin listed next to it: cobia caught in Destin, FL; or lettuce grown in Buckley, MI. Global flavors make a guest appearance too, like jamón Serrano from Salamanca, Spain. Portraits of pigs hang above the wooden booths that line the room, and sure enough, pork is a highlight on the menu. Braised pork belly, for instance, is flash-fried and laid over sunchoke purée with blanched fava beans for a spectacular finish.