Jason Atherton’s empire now covers the globe but Mayfair’s Pollen Street Social is a special place because it’s here at his flagship that it all began. He used lockdown as an opportunity to develop his ideas and when he relaunched, it was with a new style and a new concept.

The smart bar is a place for pre-meal drinks and snacks; well-spaced tables provide a feeling of luxury and elegance; and there’s a chef’s counter where you can watch the team prepare your premium tasting menu. Top-notch British produce is used in unfussy modern dishes with a classic heart and the occasional playful touch, and strong, punchy flavours shine through. The dishes are often finished at the table with a flourish, while the well-drilled serving team explain their make-up. The sommelier, meanwhile, has a natural skill for gauging tastes and price limits.