Housed in the former Zin space, this contemporary darling is actually a full-circle comeback for Chef Dustin Valette and his brother/General Manager Aaron Garzini, whose grandfather owned the building in the 1940s. Its current look, however, is as cutting-edge as ever thanks to dandelion-like light fixtures, concrete walls and horseshoe-shaped banquettes. The bill of fare is modern American with a few French twists. Scallops arrive beneath squid ink puff pastry, into which a server pours caviar-flecked champagne-beurre blanc. Then, Peking-spiced duck breast set atop hearty forbidden rice is taken to the next level with a touch of tamarind sauce.

For an appetizing end, dig into the smooth block of chocolate mousse with a luscious salted caramel center.