On 29th November, when the switch is thrown and the lights of the Vilnius Christmas Tree burst into colour, illuminating every falling snowflake and every wide smile, the Lithuanian capital's Old Town will be transformed into a world of magical delight.
Centrally located in the city's Cathedral Square, under the watchful eye of the ancient Gediminas’ Tower, the tree becomes the glittering centrepiece of a bustling Christmas Market that will capture the hearts of visitors of all ages. In fact, the Vilnius Christmas Tree has been widely recognised around the world as one of the most beautiful and most decorative to be found in Europe and beyond.
While the Lithuanian capital may not be as well-known as some of the other larger European festive destinations, it's the city's winding cobbled lanes, classical architecture, fine dining options, luxurious accommodation and its friendly, welcoming demeanour that draws people back again and again.
For five magical weeks, from the end of November until the end of December, the Christmas Market becomes the city's central hub of festive entertainment and light. In contrast to the dark Baltic winter, the market – and the entire festive city – shines brightly, waiting to be discovered by families wrapped snugly in warm winter woollens, couples capturing the moment with a glass of steaming mulled wine and a selfie beside the lavishly decorated tree, or by every grown-up child wishing to rekindle the magic of Christmas past.
The market itself is formed around the tree, into a circular labyrinth of ornamentally decked out wooden stalls offering a Santa's sleigh brimming with festive goods. From exquisitely decorated ornaments, warm handmade clothing and scented candles, to sweets, home-baked goodies and hot chocolate, every footstep brings a new delight.
If you happen to be shopping for the perfect festive gift, Lithuania offers a treasure trove of delightful discoveries – native amber jewellery, handmade wooden toys and household goods, nutcracker soldiers, snow globes, Lithuanian fruit teas, brightly coloured candies, gingerbread, unique artwork, artisan decorations and much more.
If exploring starts to make you feel a little peckish, the market stalls also serve an endless assortment of traditional and modern snacks and drinks to pick you up, from hot chocolate and spiced wine to tasty meat-filled pastries (kibinai) and the Lithuanian festive favourite šakotis, a deliciously sweet spit-cake made from butter, eggs, flour, sugar and cream.
You have to keep your energy levels high to get the full Christmas experience in Vilnius, as there is more than just one Christmas market and one Christmas experience to savour in the city. A firm favourite with children of all ages is the Christmas train that trundles its way musically from Cathedral Square along the cobbled pedestrian Pilies street, past brightly illuminated shops, cafés, restaurants, churches and galleries towards the smaller, more compact market located in the nearby Rotušė or Town Hall Square.
Here, the swoosh of skates and joy-filled laughter can be heard from the Christmas ice rink, backed by festive melodies played by musicians. Steaming drinks, tasty treats and flaming braziers offer warmth to cold hands and feet, while the tall columns of the city's old Town Hall, bejewelled in decoration and light, add a burst of seasonal sparkle to the Old Town square.
On 30th November, the day after the official lighting of the tree in the Cathedral Square, the Town Hall Square plays host to the annual International Christmas Charity Bazaar. The Bazaar is run and overseen by residents from Lithuania's international community and offers a flavour of Christmas and seasonal delights from over 40 countries while raising money for local charities.
Nearby, on the winding and ancient Stikliu and Savičiaus Streets, tiny boutiques and artisanal workshops are bathed in the light of overhead festive decorations, and miniature Christmas trees dripping in fairy lights guide your way from store to store, restaurant to restaurant and bar to bar. From hand-bound notebooks and one-of-a-kind trinkets to traditional Lithuanian linen clothing and ceramics, the tiny winding streets of the city's one-time Jewish ghetto are drawn from the illustrations of a child's book of fairy tales.
As Vilnius is such a compact capital, none of the city's other festive attractions are ever far away. During the Holiday period, the city boasts a festival of illuminations, daily choral recitals and concerts, and for those who like to get some exercise when they travel, they can don a cheerful Santa hat and take part in the great Vilnius City Christmas Run.
Christmas Eve is the big event for almost all Lithuanian families, who gather together on the evening of the 24th and indulge in an age-old dining tradition – kūčios. This special Yuletide meal originates from both Pagan and Christian traditions and consists of 12 different dishes – all without meat – that symbolise the months of the year, and diners should sample each one to ensure success in the following 12 months.
On a typical Kūčios menu, you'll find poppy seed milk; kūčiukai (tiny Christmas Eve cookies made from dough and poppy seeds); a drink or dessert called spanguolių kisielius, made from crushed cranberries, starch and water; pickled herring; mushroom dumplings; and other simple but traditional dishes. If you happen to be invited to kūčios in a Lithuanian's home, be prepared to try some unusual tastes and combinations.
If pickled herring and poppy seed milk isn't your bag, the Lithuanian capital is also home to a selection of Michelin Guide restaurants, bistros and eateries where you can dine in luxury and be assured of sampling the finest ingredients, tastefully prepared and presented, and served in a range of unique environments.
On Vilniaus Gatvė, in the heart of the city centre, and housed in a lovingly restored town house, One Michelin Starred Džiaugsmas offers a unique dining experience built on a foundation of creative Lithuanian traditions, ingredients and tastes. Spread over several floors, diners are offered starters like Lithuanian doughnuts with locally-sourced black pudding, and mains that offer the flavours of the Baltic and North Seas, like halibut and shrimp mousse. The restaurant also offers sharing plates, as well as tasting menus with an attractive emphasis on locally sourced ingredients.
On nearby Pylimo Gatvė, you'll find Bib Gourmand awarded Gaspar's under a restored Yiddish sign harking back to when the area was on the cusp of the city's Jewish ghetto. Here, Chef-Owner Gaspar Fernandez, of Goan and Portuguese heritage, has creatively blended the tastes of his upbringing through subtle spicing and creative innovation. The restaurant is famed locally for Gaspar's “My Mum's Curry” that translates the tastes of the chef's upbringing and seamlessly blends the flavours of the two continents.
A 10-minute walk from the Town Hall Square and crossing a small bridge over the Vilnelė River, you'll find yourself in the city's Bohemian quarter, Užupis, a self-proclaimed Republic with its own constitution and its own government. It's here in Užupis, that you'll find another Bib Gourmand, Le Travi, a delectable little restaurant that you'll fall in love with at any time of year. Nurtured by Mattia, a Genoan native, the chef has conjured all of the tastes of 'nonna'-style cooking that can usually only be found in the Italian backstreets. The restaurant is cosy, compact and split over two rooms, but for the best experience a seat at the counter will bring the whole experience to life.
Back in the heart of the Old Town, and close to all the festive events, you can choose from two more sumptuous dining experiences, both housed on the same winding side-street, Dominikonų Gatvė – at numbers 11 and 14 respectively – Michelin Starred Nineteen18 is famed for its sealed menu that features approximately 10 individual dishes designed to flow smoothly into one another as your dining experience grows. From the same stable, the nearby 14Horses, which holds a Bib Gourmand, delivers a range of dishes with well-defined flavours, which are often delivered to the table by the chef himself.
When it comes to accommodation for the Vilnius festive season, this small, compact and cosy city has much to offer. Many of the city's old buildings have been lovingly restored to their former grandeur and include the once noble palace of the Hotel Pacai, situated a mere snowball's throw from the Town Hall Square, and the Hotel Vilnia, located just five-minutes walk from the city's spectacular Christmas Tree. If you prefer the cosiness of the Old Town's Jewish Quarter with its winding backstreets, you'll love the experience of being spoiled in the Relais & Châteaux Stikliai Hotel, a designer boutique hotel which sits beside the aforementioned restaurant Nineteen18.
From sampling delicious treats and warming beverages at Cathedral Square's Christmas Market to donning your skates and taking to the ice, Vilnius at Christmas really is a magical winter wonderland waiting to be enjoyed by everyone who loves the magic of the season, but it’s not the only place worth visiting on your festive break.
Lithuania's second city, Kaunas, is only an hour away by car, bus or train – and like all of Lithuania, Christmas is a very special time in the city. Set on the banks of the Nemunas River, Kaunas boasts a magnificently unique festive atmosphere, with a Christmas Market, sparkling lights on every street, and cosy backstreet cafés serving up warming glasses of mulled wine and cider, hot chocolate or steaming mugs of coffee overflowing with marshmallows.
While smaller than it's nearby neighbour, Kaunas stores great pride in its efforts to make the city every bit as Christmassy as its bigger sister. Year after year, the city’s seasonal experiences evolve, with new events, spectacles and innovative ideas coming to the fore – having its Christmas tree designed by famous artists is just one of many.
When it's time to eat, head to Nüman if you like a side of history with your lunch. It comes with welcoming service, a charming atmosphere and modern, flavour-led cooking. For dinner try Uoksas, a chic spot serving contemporary Nordic style dishes, that is both laid-back and lively at the same time.
So, if you’re planning on visiting Vilnius this Christmas, why not leave a little time to travel to Kaunas and enjoy the Holiday season in a smaller, more homely environment too. The airports at both Vilnius and Kaunas are only three hours or less from most major European cities, making a visit to Lithuania your own, easy-to-get-to Christmas stocking filler – and the perfect place to fill your stockings too!
If you can't make it before the year's end, don't worry. The Vilnius Holiday festivities – including a grand New Year celebration in the Cathedral Square – continue right up until 7th January, with the final procession of the Three Kings winding through the city's Old Town streets, wrapping up a magical experience for another year.
Linksmų Kalėdų! Merry Christmas!
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