The most beautiful flight of steps in the world and then an elevator to a terrace with a breathtaking panorama – the route up to Imàgo resembles a stairway to heaven!
First of all, you take the staircase from the “barcaccia” in Piazza di Spagna (the fountain designed by Bernini), then the Travertine marble steps that widen and narrow as they alternate with terraces in a fine display of Baroque architecture. After this, you come to the obelisk crowning the top of the staircase and then, finally, you reach the Hassler, one of the Italian capital’s most iconic and luxurious hotels, which has been awarded One Michelin Key.
However, even at this point you haven’t quite finished your ascent, although from here it’s an easier journey, as an elevator takes you up to Imàgo, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant. The spectacular view is heralded by the glow of light in the dining room. The glass walls come into focus, revealing a beautiful panorama that has few equals in the world. To the right stand the belltowers of Trinità dei Monti church (a stunning sight when seen so close at hand!), then, as you shift your gaze to the left, you’ll make out many of the city’s most emblematic monuments. Some visitors will recognize one building, while others will identify a different one – for a while, it seems as though you’re circling over the rooftops of Rome like seagulls.
Imagine the challenge for a chef to compete with this spectacular view. This is the challenge met by young Andrea Antonini, who serves two tasting menus here. The first is dedicated to his classic favorites, offering guests the opportunity to enjoy his most successful dishes, while the second, entitled Project, showcases Andrea’s creative talent to the full, making it perfect for anyone returning to the restaurant who wants to see how the chef’s cuisine has evolved.
Although this was my first time as an Inspector at the restaurant with this chef at the helm, it seemed appropriate to choose the second option. The fact that everything on the tasting menu was already decided speeded up the ordering process, and for the wine I asked the sommelier for his recommendations. All that remained for me to do was immerse myself in the gastronomic spectacle that awaited.
There were several surprises, but most of all I was impressed by the chef’s ability to draw from a wide range of gastronomic influences, interweaving classic Italian recipes with his own personal, mature vision. The mock mini-pizza served in a take-away container kicked off the evening, at the same time setting the scene for the rest of the dinner. The delicious primi included sea cucumber in green sauce, and lamb, sheep’s milk and fenugreek, followed by secondi in which the porchetta-style seabass stood out for its technical expertise (a real work of art), as did the balanced sweet-and-sour flavor of the mustard and apricots served with a truly exquisite beef sirloin.
But it was in the two first courses that the chef's skills really shone – the raviolo with yeast, potatoes, and onions and the butter and parmesan pasta with citrus and pollen. The latter was the best dish of the evening and at the same time, probably the most challenging. It involved starting from a dish that is a symbol of Italian cuisine, which is relatively simple in its basic version, and then transforming it into a complex recipe in which technique is not just an embellishment for its own sake but a way of emphasizing the flavors and broadening their spectrum and intensity.
The freshly flavoured end to dinner – a watermelon, almond and olive dessert – was exciting, but it still left room for a small selection of pastries, including the local maritozzo as a tribute to Rome, served here with a wild strawberry garnish.
Once dinner was over, just like the ball in a pinball machine, I made the reverse journey downhill, from the top floor of the Hassler down the Spanish Steps to Piazza di Spagna – a journey that felt a bit like coming back to earth having taken a stairway to heaven!
Although Rome is not as historically linked to pasta production as Campania, it was in the Ancient city of Urbe that the most famous versions of the Italian dish first appeared.
Master of a style of wine service that has set the standard in Italy, Marco Reitano has been head sommelier at the Michelin Three Star La Pergola since 1994.
