In this contemporary bistro, the chef rolls out a score that is as straightforward and satisfying as the establishment’s name suggests. Bistro classics (think French onion soup, beef tartare, chocolate mousse) rub shoulders with traditional country recipes, on which he puts a savvy new spin. A case in point is the cromesquis of aligot made with fresh Aubrac tome and tarragon-spiked raviole of poultry. The indulgent, beautifully crafted desserts are wickedly enticing, e.g. an apple extravaganza with caramelised apple, granny smith sorbet, apple gel, pastry cream laced with Madagascan vanilla and a crispy wafer.