Congratulations to Marco Thompson of One Star Osteria Giulia, the MICHELIN Guide Toronto 2023 Sommelier of the year award winner! As part of the 2023 MICHELIN Guide Toronto Star Celebration, we chatted with general manager about the One Star's vast Italian wine list and cocktail program, his favorite drink, and criteria's behind adding new wines. Cheers!
What are you drinking these days?
Right now, I'm drinking vibrant and aromatic white wines from high-elevation regions. Most recently, I have fallen in love with native grape varietals from Collio in Friuli Venezia Giulia. The flinty minerality and refreshing acidity of Ribolla Gialla, Picolit, and Friulano always leave you craving another glass.
Favorite non-alcoholic drink?
On my recent trip to Italy, I was reminded of how much I enjoy apricot juice. It is not something you see every day here in Canada, but growing up, it was a staple in my house. So seeing apricot juice just immediately transports me back. Otherwise, nothing really beats an ice-cold, freshly squeezed mint lemonade on a hot day or after a long service.
What’s your ideal meal and pairing?
I really enjoy simple homemade meals rooted in tradition like bucatini all'amatriciana. I rarely use more than 3-4 ingredients in any dish, and always try to source the freshest seasonal produce and proteins. When it comes to pairings, one of the simplest but most effective strategies is what grows together goes together. Food and wine have always gone hand in hand in many cultures, so a traditional regional dish will always pair perfectly with a local wine.
One of my favorite meals is a porterhouse steak (at least 3 fingers thick) cooked over an open fire with coal-roasted potatoes or eggplant, grilled zucchini and marinated bell peppers—bringing a little bit of Canada and Tuscany to the meal. I typically pair this with a 10-year-old Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
What’s the biggest misconception about being a sommelier, or wine in general?
The biggest misconception about sommeliers is that we only drink and enjoy old, complex wines from highly acclaimed houses and the best vintages. In reality, wine is subjective. We all have very different tastes and enjoy different styles. We welcome the opportunity to explore new regions, producers and winemaking styles. Each of us is passionate in our continuous search for wines that bring a sense of place, a story to tell, and are made by amazing people.
What’s your criteria for adding a new wine to your list?
I always look for underrepresented or rediscovered native grape varietals, often looking to support small-scale and family-run winemakers across Italy. I take great pride in showcasing the incredible variety that Italy has to offer. I love to surprise guests with wines they have never heard of—transporting them to the region or town it comes from as they dine with us.
I believe in maintaining a diverse list that can satisfy every palate and budget, and I work hard to ensure we have excellent wines in every category. My favorite wines to talk about are those with a story to tell, whether it's about the winery’s choices in the vineyards or winemaking process, the winemakers themselves or the adopted puppy who will only eat the grapes when they are ripe.
Favorite wine-related film, book, magazine, etc?
One of my favorite wine-related books is “Secrets of the Sommeliers: How to Think and Drink Like the World’s Top Wine Professionals” by Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay. It is inspiring and a great guide on becoming an accomplished sommelier, written by one of the best to ever do it. For wine magazines, I follow Wine Spectator and really enjoy the storytelling, voice, design and graphics of Noble Rot Magazine.
Hero image: Courtesy of Osteria Giulia
