For chefs Nicholas “Nic” Webber and Jacob Jordan, 24 Suns was initially envisioned as a dim sum food truck. “We were making batches on batches of dumplings testing and perfecting recipes and at a certain point we had to tap in friends to help eat them all,” chef/owner Nicholas “Nic” Webber recalls.
But as the number of friends and tastings increased, so did the amount of dishes.
“We started to add little dishes so there could be a more balanced meal besides five versions of the same dumpling or bao,” Webber adds. “Add a crudo. Add a salad. Knowing our background, I think we were just quickly drawn into these 10 course fine dining directions. After a few dinners, we knew the food truck wasn't the way for us and that this style of dining was more honest to ourselves.”
Having both worked at Three MICHELIN Star Addison, the pair were no strangers to fine dining. “Addison taught me to polish my shoes, press my apron, and show up early…I grew up in that kitchen,” Webber reminisces. “Don’t work on a crooked board, notice the crumb on the ground; that attention to detail, discipline, and precision always stays with me.”
And so, with both of their fine dining experiences and love for dim sum, the pair decided to ditch their original concept of a dim sum food truck and transformed it into a Chinese fine dining pop-up.
The name, “24 Suns”, is inspired by the twenty-four solar periods recognized in the traditional Chinese lunisolar calendar. It reflects the changes in climate and was used to guide agricultural production. “It recognizes the little changes that happen every couple of weeks, which is how we operate our kitchen,” Webber explains. “We write our menus frequently, but the final decisions are made in the market based on what is best available or what's exciting the farmer that week.”
That willingness to adapt, according to Webber, is one of the things that sets 24 Suns apart. Each solar term brought about a new menu based on changes in the local market. “If I write a dish that says English peas but the farm is out and they have beautiful fava beans, we’ll change things up right there.”
“Sourcing locally is the menu—it completely dictates it,” Webber exclaims. “I think about eating a strawberry that’s still hot from the sun as we picked them at The Ecology Center. How close can I get to that moment in a dish? That’s the unique quality of local flavors that I’m chasing.”
The beverage program at 24 Suns follows that same philosophy—beer is sourced entirely from the San Diego and Oceanside area, while natural wine is brought in from the West Coast, relying on organic and biodynamic producers.
Aside from sourcing locally, the pop-up also has a whole animal program that utilizes every part of an animal. Through techniques like dry aging and charcuterie, Webber’s team is able to preserve meats for the perfect moment while still committing to sustainability.
The result is a menu filled with classic Chinese dishes infused with the fresh ingredients of Southern California and French techniques. “We love to showcase and highlight unique ferments and preserves that we either replicate in house or get from China,” Webber adds.
Highlight dishes include the Dongpo pork over candied anchovy rice (dried anchovies are candied like a nut in caramel, except instead of caramel, it is soy sauce, balsamic, and a mix of savory and tangy bases) and the wagyu beef cheek jiaozi served in preserved lime bourbon sauce. “The rice has this insanely savory crunchy bit that adds the perfect crunch in contrast to the gooey pork,” Webber describes. “I’m obsessed with it.”
Through the duo’s efforts, 24 Suns not only offers an extraordinary dining experience but also fosters a deeper appreciation for Chinese cuisine within the community. “We want to be a place for the community—reliable but excellent,” Webber explains. “I see this as an opportunity to get people more interested in Chinese cuisine and adventure beyond their expected Chinese American takeout menu.”
And with the team's first brick and mortar location in Oceanside (3375 Mission Ave., Oceanside, CA), they might just do exactly that.
Hero image: 24 Suns
