When it comes to rice dumplings — or zongzi — tradition wraps every bite in flavor, but what if the perfect wine could unwrap a whole new dimension?
For Yoyo Tseng, sommelier at Taiwan’s One-MICHELIN-Star YUENJI, pairing these classic rice dumplings with the right wine isn’t just possible — it’s pure magic.
RELATED: Iconic Dishes: Exploring the Rich Diversity of Taiwan’s Rice Dumplings
Tseng carefully considers flavors, textures, and serving temperatures to breathe new life into traditional zongzi, bringing both elegance and vibrancy to the table.
As the first woman in Taiwan to receive the Sommelier Award for MICHELIN Guide Taiwan in 2024, Tseng brings exceptional expertise and passion to her craft. Having honed her skills at prestigious establishments such as Two-MICHELIN-Star L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and MICHELIN-selected restaurant 85TD, she also holds a WSET Level 3 Award in Wines and Spirits, Japan’s highest sommelier qualification, and a Level 2 tea tasting certification. Her keen insights into local culture inform her bold yet meticulous approach to wine service.
RELATED: Meet The 18 Female Chefs Who Lead MICHELIN Star Restaurants In Asia
Wine and Rice Dumpling Pairing Dos & Don’ts
Rice dumplings come in a wide variety of unique and delicious styles, ranging from rich and savory to sweet and fluffy. To help navigate the different flavors, Tseng shares some failproof principles for choosing wines — starting from flavor profiles and centered on the concept of balance.
For savory rice dumplings filled with pork, mushrooms, and salted egg yolk, which have a rich and aromatic oiliness, dry white wines or refreshing rosés are excellent options. “The acidity in the wine can balance the greasiness and accentuate the flavors of the ingredients,” she says, adding that a crisp sparkling wine is also a great choice. “With heavier and oilier pork rice dumplings, the bubbles and acidity can help lighten the palate.
“If the filling contains spices like five-spice powder or herbal elements, you can opt for red wines with spice or floral notes, such as pinot noir or grenache, to complement the spices in the dumpling,” she says. “Full-bodied red wines with strong tannins and fruity flavors may clash with the savory and oily characteristics of meat rice dumplings, making them feel heavier than they already are. Conversely, overly light wines may struggle to match the richness and spicy aromatics in the dumplings.”
Sweet dumplings, typically made with glutinous rice wrapped around fillings like red bean paste, date paste, or lotus seed paste, have a soft and fluffy texture. These pair well with sweeter white wines, which enhance the flavor of the filling. “Because the fillings are quite sweet, pairing them with high-acidity wines can create an overly stark contrast, resulting in an imbalance that detracts from the sweet dumpling’s taste,” she adds.
Here are Tseng's five wine pairing recommendations for common rice dumplings, to elevate your next zongzi feast.
1. Southern Taiwanese Rice Dumplings
Recommended wine pairing: 2004 Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France
Southern Taiwanese rice dumplings emphasize the natural flavors of ingredients such as pork belly and peanuts. While being boiled, the dumplings absorb the broth, resulting in a moist and sticky texture. They are best paired with a medium to full-bodied red wine that complements their richness. The 2004 Château de Beaucastel, a grenache-based blend from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is at its peak maturity, showcasing rounded tannins and balanced acidity along with complex flavors of dried flowers, leather, spices, and red and black berries alongside hints of black tea.
“The smooth tannins beautifully complement the fatty richness of the pork belly and peanuts,” Tseng says “The wine’s spice and leather notes interact well with the salted egg yolk and savory aromas. The mature acidity balances the stickiness of the glutinous rice, creating a clean mouthfeel that does not overwhelm.” (Top-right image ©YUENJI)
RELATED: 6 Expert Tips to Pair Wine with Holiday Treats Like a Pro
Northern Taiwanese Rice Dumplings
Recommended wine pairing: 2023 Tenuta Regaleali Frappato, Sicilia, Italy
Northern Taiwanese rice dumplings are made by stir-frying glutinous rice with various ingredients, which are then wrapped in bamboo leaves for steaming. The dumplings feature prominent aromas of lard and soy sauce, with distinct, fluffy rice grains and a chewy texture. “A light red wine with vibrant, fruity flavors is an excellent choice,” she recommends.
The frappato from Sicily's volcanic terroir offers notes of red cherries, strawberries, red flowers, and delicate spices, lending complex layers that complement the mushroom and savory flavors. With its moderately high acidity, it effectively balances the dumpling's oiliness. Tseng suggests serving it at a temperature of 14 to 15°C for an extra refreshing experience. (Top-left image ©YUENJI)
3. Sweet Rice Dumplings
Recommended wine pairing: 2018 Weingut Frey Pinot Noir Beerenauslese, Rheinhessen, Germany
For sweet dumplings like those filled with red bean paste, a thoughtful wine pairing can enhance their subtle complexity and texture. Unlike the typical choice of sweet white wines, Tseng takes a different approach by pairing them with a less common sweet red wine.This distinctive German sweet red wine is made from 100% pinot noir. “Pinot noir offers notes of dried strawberries, rose petals, and cinnamon, which elevate the delicate and layered flavors of the red bean filling,” she explains. The fruity sweetness naturally complements the red bean paste, while the bright acidity cuts through the stickiness of the glutinous rice and red bean filling, creating an overall taste that is light and refreshing. The lingering finish of red fruits and honey also lengthens the aroma of the sweet dumpling. (Top-right image ©YUENJI)
4. Seafood Rice Dumplings
Recommended wine pairing: 2017 Domaine Comte Armand Bourgogne Aligoté, Burgundy, France
“Seafood rice dumplings feature premium ingredients like scallops and abalone, offering strong umami flavors with a hint of fattiness and brininess,” says Tseng. “The key to a good pairing is to enhance the umami flavors without overpowering the rice dumpling while adding layers of complexity.”She believes that a 100% aligoté white wine, with its unique mineral and oceanic brininess, beautifully enriches the savory umami notes of seafood dumplings. Its well-balanced acidity further enhances the richness and depth of the flavors from the scallops and abalone.
5. For Asian Meal Pairings
Recommended wine pairing: Vinhos Aparte Ambar Orange, Lisboa, Portugal
Besides rice dumplings, Tseng recommends natural wine to pair with Asian flavors on summer days. This orange wine is made from moscatel grapes with extended skin contact that have been blended with the local arinto variety. Unclarified and unfiltered, it showcases an amber hue and aroma of spices, along with notes of orange peel, honey plum, Earl Grey tea, dried flowers, and a hint of minerality. The wine also displays a slight astringency and tea-like structure.
“It pairs wonderfully with Taiwanese snacks like saltwater chicken, braised dishes, and smoked duck, as well as Southeast Asian dishes like Thai papaya salad and Vietnamese spring rolls,” says Tseng. “It even works well with vegetable dishes like cauliflower rice, making it an exciting choice for summer refreshment.”
RELATED: The Many Lives of Three Cup Chicken, a Taiwanese Classic
Further Reading: All the Wine and Wine-Pairing Stories
The article is written by Jenna Yang and translated by Iris Wong. Read the original article here.
Do not drink and drive.
