MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

What makes this “pearl” such a memorable dining experience is that the cooking is ambitious yet whimsical, and completely devoid of formality or fuss. Whether the bartender or Chef de Cuisine Scott Muns serves you, no one in this kitchen seems self-important. Your continued enjoyment is paramount—an honorable feat considering that you're in for a meal that occupies most of your night. This small space may be packed, but the ambience is pleasant and very comfortable. Know that the prix-fixe includes beverage pairings, but guests seated at the bar may choose to order drinks à la carte instead. No matter where you land, dishes spark interest and service remains at its highest level. Roasted turbot carved tableside is set over mustard cream that melts in your mouth. Filled with Robiola Bosina and smoked dates as well as charred potatoes and nettles, raviolo doppio presents a terrific flavor combination. Tradition is also clearly revered here by way of veal sweetbreads en croute, a savory pastry layered with mushroom duxelles, chicken boudin and, of course, sweetbreads, for a richly satisfying twist. Desserts never fail to surprise, as seen in the wonderful carrot cake with parsley gelato.