There is so much to love here, where sharply dressed servers dish up equal parts warmth, hospitality and steaming bowls of pasta. The menu leans heavily towards that nostalgic sort of red-sauce, Italian-American cooking that is again finding more and more respect, thanks to mouthwatering dishes like merluzzo marechiaro and veal scaloppini.The interior is lovely, which is particularly important since you’re in for a bit of a wait (everything is made fresh to order). But who would complain when fluffy knobs of potato gnocchi arrive tossed in basil pesto with Gorgonzola cheese and walnuts. Chicken scarpariello is perfectly caramelized, deeply flavored and bathed in a sinfully rich wine broth, fragrant with rosemary.