MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

Housed within a historical 19th-century print shop, this urbane, stylish but unfussy dining room does a fine job mixing original details with modern touches. Muted tones in the exposed brick walls and custom tile floors complement newer elements like floor-to-ceiling wine storage and dramatic smoke-shaded chandeliers that drip with crystals. Though the décor may tip its hat to yesteryear, the ambience is decidedly inviting and Chef Andrew Zimmerman’s cuisine is firmly grounded in the 21st century. Settle into one of their spacious tables and look forward to a meal that reflects the delicious amalgam of American cuisine, with hints of Southeast Asian, Korean and Mediterranean tastes. But, it is at dinner when this kitchen truly shines. Gnocchi for instance may seem commonplace, but this version is memorable thanks to the flawless components and rich flavors of lamb sugo and ciabatta breadcrumbs. Chicken is downright exciting, served crisp-skinned with a buttery Albufera sauce, crumbly chestnuts, caramelized fennel and sausage. Simple-sounding desserts keep the bar high until the very end of the feast, and may include a toffee-coconut cake with chocolate ganache and burnt caramel.