Like so many sushi counters, this one too feels like a neighborhood secret, hidden in the back of a complex with no large flashing sign above its door and overshadowed by far louder (read: busier) restaurants nearby. And yet, this intimate spot is indeed worth seeking out, as the ten-seat counter offers the chance to enjoy a leisurely omakase under the guidance of Chef Atsushi Yokoyama.

Those seated at the tables may feel left out, watching others chat with the itamae, open bottles after bottles of sake, and regularly toast the chef and each other. Moments of quiet are filled by watching this one-man show lend artistry to the meal without too much pomp or fuss. Begin with a procession of cooked, often original plates like shirako with spiny lobster and cauliflower or matsutake soup served in a clipped cello bag designed to trap the mushroom’s intense aromas.

Most of the seafood comes from Japanese waters, with some of it still alive as it is served—look for a bowl of Japanese river crabs. Nigiri is minimally dressed, while the rice is just right and well defined. Don’t be alarmed if the couple next to you is served entirely different items. They were likely just in a week before.