MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

Yet another in the wave of Mexican-American LA chefs transforming the cuisine, Thomas Ortega brings his fine-dining drill to bear on this vibrant offering in his native Cerritos. Here he fuses his specific style of the city’s Mexican cuisine, like handmade tortillas and spicy salsas, with an American twist. Look for that Coca-Cola glaze on his pork belly or the sprinkle of Doritos on chilaquiles, not to mention such luxurious accents as truffles. It's hard to miss with any of Chef Ortega's tacos, which range from light and crisp beer-battered cod with smoky salsa de arbol to gloriously tender and charred al pastor. And that fried "calamari famoso," bright and peppery with onions and cilantro? It's the ideal partner for a spicy michelada.