The first thing to know is that the Catskills aren't precisely defined. While “the Catskills” technically refers to the mountain range that spreads across upstate New York, the region isn't one with rigidly drawn borders. But when you say the Catskills — everyone knows what you mean. This is a quaint, rural stretch just a few hours north of New York City. And it's the place to go for hiking, for tiny, picturesque main streets and for an overwhelming relief that you've finally escaped the congestion of the city that never sleeps.
I’ve been visiting the Catskills since childhood — for those born to New Yorkers of a certain age, it’s almost a part of our birthright. But the Catskills of past generations are not the Catskills of today. What was once littered with big resorts, the famous places where entertainers like Mel Brooks and Buddy Hackett made the Borscht Belt a household name, is now the purview of a stream of hip boutiques and cozy cocktail bars.
Explore by vibe:
Last year, I gassed up the rental and drove 150 miles, from the border of Pennsylvania to the edge of Massachusetts, to update my perspective on a region that’s constantly in flux. This year, I did it again — stopping at new hotels and updating the guide below for 2025.
Editor's note: The MICHELIN Guide does not currently include restaurants in upstate New York. This guide draws on the recommendations of local hoteliers.
First Stop: Callicoon
This was new to me. To me, the Catskills has always meant the area closer to the Hudson River, in the wilderness outside the towns of Woodstock and Saugerties. Here, at the far west end of Catskills, I found an even sleepier town. Callicoon: surrounded by woods and farms, with a downtown that yawns lazily along the abandoned railroad line. You can walk around the Delaware River, passing only the occasional groundhog or biker, breathing deep and taking in the sounds of the birds above. It feels a bit more isolated than some of the more popular Catskills towns, but for that reason it’s immensely peaceful. And the downtown has just enough attractions — restaurants, bars, to keep you busy as long as you stay.
Where to Stay: The Seminary Lodge Boarding House & Cidery keep a wonderfully Shaker-inspired boutique hotel just down the road from their organic, state-of-the-art hard cidery. This is what brought me to Callicoon, and I tasted every cider in the collection between walks downtown and through the orchards and country roads. In the nearby town of Callicoon Center, another MICHELIN Guide selection is Callicoon Hills, a boutique within an original house that dates back to 1905.
Where to eat: At the Seminary Lodge, your first stop should be the Tasting Room (open Weds to Sun), offering a locally sourced seasonal menu alongside views of the Delaware River Valley.
Next Up: Hudson River South
And now for something a little more cosmopolitan. Straddling the line in the public imagination (and tourism brochures) between the Catskills and the Hudson Valley, Kingston, Woodstock and Saugerties are among the most vibrant small towns upstate — close enough to the woods to feel natural and immersive, with enough going on to keep you busy eating and drinking between hikes. Kingston, with its claim as the original capital of New York State, has its share of history, but you may not notice it — places like Rough Draft Bar and Books make their home in the old stone buildings with little extra fanfare. Enjoy walking the waterfront and popping into boutiques.
Where to stay: At Hotel Kinsley, a historic boutique in central Kingston spread across four historic buildings, including a stately old bank and a pre-Revolutionary War cottage. Meanwhile, on a former rustic campground in Saugerties, Autocamp Catskills uses custom Airstreams and luxe tents for a beloved glamping experience.
In one of the Catskills' most energetic small towns — Woodstock — there's the colorful, characterful Twin Gables, the rare MICHELIN Guide-selected bed and breakfast. Those looking for an upscale hideaway just off the town's main drag should try the luxe, cabin-inflected suites of Woodstock Way.
If you're on your way here from Callicoon you'll likely pass right by the lovingly restored, sixties-era Starlite Motel.
Where to eat: Every hotelier in the region will recommend the romantic Cucina for seasonal Italian or Silvia, with their open kitchen and dedication to local meat and produce. Other top picks from hotel front desks include the pan-Asian Good Night and the Small Talk cocktail bar.
Onward: Big Indian and Slide Mountain Wilderness
Now you're prepared for full, woodsy immersion. Where you’ll find some of the most popular hikes in the region. Giant Ledge is famous for the (five, actually) ledges that look out over the Catskills, and you can get the views with just a 3.2-mile hike, round-trip. Keep going and you’re on your way to the summit of the 3,720-foot Panther Mountain. Then there’s the hike up Slide Mountain, the tallest peak in the Catskills. There’s a range of difficulties, so find yourself a hiking app and sort by preference. On any side of the woods are a number of quaint towns with plenty of places to scrape off the mud and recharge.Where to Stay: Take the one-way road through woods and trailheads and you'll find the forest oasis of Eastwind Hotel - Oliverea Valley, with its Nordic-inspired A-frame cabins, more traditional king rooms, firepits, and a robust wellness program. Slightly less hidden but no less special is the Leeway, a series of well-appointed, fully modern cabins (most with kitchenettes) that feel like little homes. Just off a main road, the grounds extend down to the hotel's own serene stretch of the Esophus Creek, where guests can dip their toes, picnic, and spot eagles circling overhead.
Where to eat: Dandelion, the restaurant at Eastwind, is open to the public, while hoteliers will also recommend the Peekamoose Restaurant (open Thursday through Monday) set in a restored farmhouse, Shelter for pizza and empanadas, as well as Cucina and Good Night.
The Classic: The Hunter Mountain Area
To me the most quintessential Catskills escapes. Where rolling hills lead to trailheads in dense forests and picturesque main streets (like Tannersville’s straight line of brightly painted storefronts) that make up entire downtowns. Nearby North-South lake (for a small parking fee), is home to a few of the best, moderately challenging hikes to gorgeous vistas and rocky lookouts. Head to North Point or Artist's rock for a picnic on a blisteringly sunny plateau. In summer and on weekends, get here early. It's a favorite of many.
Where to stay: Hotel Lilien brings smart, contemporary design and a cozy restaurant and cocktail bar to its home in a 19th-century Victorian mansion off the side of the road in Tannersville, while Eastwind Hotel & Bar has its own rural haven peppered with Scandinavian-inspired A-frames and freestanding hammocks for guests.
Scribner's, meanwhile, is one of the most famous lodges in the Catskills — and its new accommodations, the Rounds — add an upscale, architecturally adventurous option removed from the rest of the resort. Camptown, opened in 2023, provides a family friendly summer camp vibe, with freestanding cabins set back from road amidst the woodsy grounds.
Where to eat: You can dine at any of the hotels above: The Bunkhouse Lounge serves a full bar and light menu at Eastwind; Hotel Lilien offers a menu of robust comfort food; Scribner's houses the upscale Prospect restaurant; and Camptown features its own take on Mexican cuisine at Casa Susanna.
Many guests will stop too at the famous Phoenicia Diner (open Thursday through Tuesday), a Catskills mainstay since the early '80s — a classic diner with a vibe that's right out of Brooklyn, and that recently featured in the Apple TV series, Severance.
Big Finish: Hudson River North
Finally, drive north along the Hudson for a couple towns with iconic names. Between Catskill and Hudson, it doesn’t get more emblematic of the region than this. Hudson’s made headlines over the years for the sheer number of new residents coming to make it their home — and the number of boutiques, antique stores, coffee shops and bars surely reflect that popularity. But what brought these people in the first place? Outdoor space, parks and a location on the water that has some of the most gorgeous views you’ll find upstate.
Where to stay: The Amelia Hudson is a quietly chic and design-forward boutique on a residential street in Hudson. The Maker, on Hudson's main drag, is an architecture and design gem — in a hotel that wouldn't be out of place in New York City, or London, for that matter. Drive about a half hour east and you’re at the border of Massachusetts at the Little Cat Lodge, set under the Catamount Ski Mountain and founded by the restaurateurs behind several trendy spots in NYC.
Where to eat: There's no shortage of options in and around Hudson, where concierges point towards Feast & Floret, Wm. Farmer and Sons, Rivertown Lodge Tavern, Clocktower Farm Distillery, Hudson Diner, Mel's Bakery and The Meat Hook.
Hero image: The Seminary Lodge in Callicoon, New York, has its own cidery.
