Congratulations to Johnny Curiel, owner and chef of One MICHELIN Star Alma Fonda Fina and the 2024 MICHELIN Guide Colorado Young Chef Award Winner!
Chef Johnny Curiel, born and raised in Guadalajara, Mexico to a family of chefs, embarked on his culinary journey at the tender age of 14, working as a dishwasher in his father’s restaurant before moving to Denver and attending culinary school. He went on to work in, and lead, an impressive array of fine dining kitchens across the country, experience that he has translated back into the flavors he grew up with and offering cuisine that is at once satisfying and refined.
What inspired you to become a chef?
Family. My dad is a chef, my brother is a chef, my mom is in the fonda business. I could name ten people right now from my direct family that own restaurant businesses. Soccer was one of my biggest passions, but I had a daughter at 16 so I finally decided I wanted to be a chef because I wanted to share the way that I grew up eating. I wanted to share what I know of Mexico; not what Mexico is in the United States today.
The day that I decided to open Alma Fonda Fina was because I finally got my father's approval. There was really no approval from my dad for me to be away from my hometown or from the family in another country. When I was 30, my father finally told me, “It’s awesome. You're doing a good job.” I was like, “holy shit."
"Alma" means soul, but it is also my mother's name. I want to pay homage to my mom and to Mexican soul food. "Fonda" is more of a hole in the wall, the food that blue collar workers go and eat. And then "fina" means fine dining, more elevated. I wanted it to be Alma Fonda Fina, something that was super homey soul food, but also with technique.
What is your favorite dish on the menu?
Frijoles puercos. Every time I go back to Mexico, my mom knows I'm coming in, and she has my beans with my chorizo with my salsa de chile arbol. And to me, that's home. It feels safe. It feels homey. It feels hearty. It feels like soul food. And that will never be taken away from me.
What motivates you in the kitchen?
My team. Everybody that puts in an effort in order to make Alma Fonda Fina work. To me, winning is having a great home, having a great team, and having a great restaurant that I am proud of.
What do you eat for breakfast?
I'm a really heavy eater for breakfast, if I eat. Most of the time I actually fast, but I love a good breakfast sandwich, like an English muffin with eggs and sausage.
How do you wind down at the end of a shift?
A good conversation with my wife about the day when I get home! She's the whole hospitality service side of the restaurant. She keeps me in line. She keeps all the numbers rolling, she’s amazing. We talk about how I felt, how she felt when we're in the comfort of our home. Have a glass of wine. Our son is sleeping, and I know he's doing good. Take a really nice, cold shower, and let's decompress.
Do you have a favorite food-related show, book, program, etc.?
Because it connects Mexico with America, I always love watching Taco Chronicles. They show you the tacos and the beautiful spots in Mexico, and then how it's being done in the United States, so to me, it connects both of my backgrounds.
If I go to Mexico, I'm not Mexican enough because now I am an American and they call me “chicano,” which means that you were born in the United States. In the United States, I'm Mexican and not American enough, so shows that put the U.S. and Mexico together make me feel really at home.
What advice would you give to a young person who wants to become a chef?
Always be open. Always be open to pivoting, always be open to feedback. Don't take anything too hard.
The younger crowd has a lot of access to a lot of information that we didn't have, so listen, read, look at Instagram, look at TikTok, but also absorb as much as you can from the people surrounding you, the people that have talent, and make sure that your ego is set aside.
Get out of your comfort zone, also. There's ten different ways to do it. Make sure that you learn them, and then make your decision for you, not for everybody. Listen, be respectful, take every feedback with grace, and it's going to be amazing.
How do you motivate your team?
Keeping them engaged in a lot of things, keeping them learning, and keeping them doubting. Uncertainty Is the most special thing to continue to be motivated and to continue to grow. The moment we become complacent, the moment we get comfortable, it's the moment you stop growing. Taking them to Mexico, doing classes, talking about the reasoning and where we’re going keeps them motivated.
You're only as good as your last day. So, every day it's, "How are we better today than we were yesterday?"
Hero image: Shawn Campbell / Alma Fonda Fina
Thumb image: Shawn Campbell / Alma Fonda Fina
