Longform

We have no qualms paying ahead for movie tickets and air fares, so why not a meal?

Once a VIP perk for select diners, chef’s tables in Hong Kong have moved from the clatter of the kitchen to private rooms and approachable counters where diners can watch the chefs at work.

Three vanguards of Chinese cuisine — Andre Chiang, Alan Yau and Jereme Leung — offer unique perspectives about putting the gastronomic treasures of China on the map.