The menu is so long, it looks like an unrolled scroll; it’s an invitation to try a wide variety of items. Setting great store by the spirit of the Naniwa kappo, the chef spontaneously creates items to suit individual diners’ fancies. Counter seats are popular, as customers can enjoy a repartee with the chef. This banter between customers and chef creates a convivial mood, the chef a blur of motion behind the counter even as he chats. His mentor taught him that the customer comes first, and the chef takes the lesson fully to heart.