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People 5 minutes 20 March 2019

10 Female Chefs Behind New One-Michelin-Starred Restaurants In France

The MICHELIN Guide France Selection 2019 shines the spotlight on 10 female chefs from freshly minted one-starred restaurants in France.

female chefs France

The MICHELIN Guide France 2019 selection broke new ground with a record 75 dining establishments gaining either one, two or three stars. These restaurants are part of the annual list, which recognises 632 establishments with stars this year. 

Most notably, 10 freshly-minted one-starred restaurants have female chefs in top positions. In another nod to female power in the kitchen, modern haute Parisien restaurant La Scène, which is helmed by Stephanie Le Quellec, also earned its second star.

“This year, more than any other, the MICHELIN Guide France is demonstrating a gastronomic France that excels on all fronts,” says Gwendal Poullenec, international director of the MICHELIN Guides. “From remarkable regional dynamism, to showcasing new talented youngsters, and to an unprecedented number of new star-studded restaurants led by women, the 2019 vintage shines brightly in many ways.”

We round up these female chefs whose culinary stars are shining brightly. 

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1. Nolwenn Corre, Hostellerie de la Pointe Saint-Mathieu

About: Heading the kitchen at the Hostellerie de la Pointe Saint-Mathieu is Nolwenn Corre, who has inherited a love for cooking from her father, Philippe. A graduate of the renowned Institut Paul Bocuse, Corre has worked under top chefs such as Yannick Alleno and Jean-Luc L'Hourre. At her restaurant, she creates stunning dishes from produce in Brittany such as lobster, langoustine and monkfish. 

What Our Inspectors Say: Attention, here‘s a nice surprise in the West! In a setting filled with contrasts, monumental fireplace and contemporary furniture, the young chef is determined and confident. Recipes are refined 

and visually impressive. The superb produce are cooked with accuracy and the food is good value for money.

2. Laetitia Cosnier, Côté Cuisine

About: One half of the dynamic duo that runs this hotel restaurant in Carnac, Laetitia Cosnier is known for using fresh and seasonal produce in their simplistic cuisine. Signature dishes include langoustine with kari gosse and lamb with spring vegetables. After working in the iconic Taillevent restaurant in Paris, the couple ran Le Petit Comptoir bistro, which received Bib Gourmand status till it shuttered in 2011.

What Our Inspectors Say: Inside the Hôtel Lann Roz, a two-man team works unassisted to produce flavourful and extremely tasty dishes that beautifully showcase regional produce. The cuisine can be enjoyed by the fireplace in winter or on the pleasant terrace in fine weather.

3. Karina Laval, Le Château de Vault-de-Lugny

About: Hailing from island nation of Mauritius in Indian Ocean, pastry chef Karina Laval is an integral part of this historic hotel restaurant's concept, which features a marriage of flavours from regional products of Burgundy and Mauritius. Laval is known for desserts such as passion fruit and mango mousse with grapefruit zest sablé, sorbet and stewed citrus fruit, and crunchy hazelnut Maracaibo chocolate with a soft praline ganache. In 2017, she took part in the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France contest, which recognises the best French craftsmen. 

What Our Inspectors Say: A majestic setting for an elegant menu. One of its dining rooms is in the former château kitchens. The chef, who is from Mauritius, pays a fitting tribute to vegetables from the estate's magnificent garden, and noble ingredients in general, which are sprinkled with exotic touches. The list of Burgundy wines is remarkable.

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4. Julia Sedefdjian, Baieta

About: Chef Julia Sedefdjian is only in her early twenties, but she has quite an impressive resume to boot. She honed her craft in Les Fables de la Fontaine, where she was promoted from sous chef to leading the restaurant to earn its first star when she was 21 years old. These days, she is running her restaurant, Baieta, which means "kiss" in Nicoise dialect, in the Latin Quarter in Paris. The menu, which is inspired by flavours from her hometown of Nice, features main courses such as line-caught Pollock fish with seasonal vegetables, quail egg and crispy mussels and roast sea bass with leeks, shellfish, green curry dressing and salicornia. 

What Our Inspectors Say: The youthful chef Julia Sedefdjian is now happily thriving in her own establishment. Her colourful, fragrant cuisine is an ode to the Mediterranean, illustrated by the painstakingly selected ingredients that she blends creatively, without forgetting her Nice roots. You will sample a caramelised pork breast or a generous skate wing sautéed in golden butter. Welcome to the Baieta — which means “kiss” in the Nice dialect.

5. Naoëlle D’Hainaut, L’Or Q’idée

About: Hailing from Saint-Ouen-l’Aumône in north-central France, chef Naoëlle d’Hainaut got her big break in the culinary world as the winner of the French edition of cooking competition show, Top Chef in 2013. These days, d’Hainaut is the chef de cuisine of L’Or Q’idée in Cergy-Pontoise, which is known for its traditional French gourmet cuisine. Favourites include Erquy red mullet rolled in nori sheet and roasted pigeon with wild flowers. 

What Our Inspectors Say: Chef d’Hainaut chose a small side-street of the centre of Pontoise to open her first restaurant. The result is an elegant Scandinavian-inspired interior and flavoursome dishes in keeping with modern tastes.

Chef Camille Pailleau heads the pastry section at Rozo in Lille.
Chef Camille Pailleau heads the pastry section at Rozo in Lille.

6. Camille Pailleau, Rozo

About: Camille Pailleau helms the pastry section at Rozo in the heart of old Lille. Pailleau has honed her craft in well-known French establishments such as Meurice, Plaza Athénée and Prince de Galles. In 2017, she teamed up with chef Diego Delbecq to start Rozo, an innovative restaurant. Pailleau's sweet creations include grapefruit meringue and dark chocolate tart. 

What Our Inspectors Say: At the helm of their restaurant in Vieux Lille, Delbecq and Pailleau make an enthusiastic duo. Delbecq showcases all he has learned over the course of an impressive career (having worked with Marc Meurin and Alain Ducasse) and already has his own distinctive signature dishes: cooked, raw and pickled mushrooms with acidulated watercress; lamb with shellfish and “marine” potatoes.. This restaurant has elegant and contemporary interiors.

Chef Chiho Kansaki (left), who has Japanese origins, works with chef Marcelo Di Giacomo from Argentina in Virtus. (Photo: Virtus)
Chef Chiho Kansaki (left), who has Japanese origins, works with chef Marcelo Di Giacomo from Argentina in Virtus. (Photo: Virtus)

7. Chiho Kanzaki, Virtus

About: Japanese chef Chiho Kanzaki ties up with chef Marcelo Di Giacomo from Argentina to start Virtus, a trendy restaurant in Paris. Kanzaki has come a long way from when she first visited France more than 10 years ago without a job and not speaking much French. After some time, she decided to head back to Japan and spent five years building up experience at Miraville in Tokyo. At 27, she returned to France and spent seven years at Menton, which is led by Mauro Colagreco. 

What Our Inspectors Say: Welcome to the headquarters of a couple (they were chefs at Mirazur, in Menton). She is of Japanese origin, he is from Argentina. Vegetables take the limelight in their pared-down, refined recipes, which feature a tantalising marriage of flavours. The set lunch menu is wonderfully affordable.

8. Ayumi Sugiyama, Accents Table Bourse

About: Ayumi Sugiyama double hats as manager and pastry chef of Accents Table Bourse in Paris. A graduate of Tsuji Culinary Institute, she worked in various restaurants such as La Truffière, where she met chef Romain Mahi. Mahi and Sugiyama would go on to start Accents Table Bourse in 2016. Dessert creations include white chocolate and clementine cream with mont blanc and kumquat, and meringue with lychee, pomelo and yuzu. 

What Our Inspectors Say: This pleasant place, which is close to the Paris Bourse and run by a Japanese pastry chef, combines classic recipes and more cutting-edge creations. The flavours are pleasant, the preparations are precise, and the lièvre à la royale (hare) is excellent. A delicious white chocolate cream flavoured with green tea is the icing on the cake of this impeccable experience. Very friendly, professional service. 

Chef Virginie Giboire of Racines returned to Rennes in France to start her restaurant.
Chef Virginie Giboire of Racines returned to Rennes in France to start her restaurant.

9. Virginie Giboire, Racines

About: Chef Virginie Giboire fulfills her childhood dream by returning to her hometown in Rennes to open her modern French restaurant. A graduate of Ferrandi culinary school in Paris, Giboire has worked under the tutelage of top chefs such as Guy Martin, Thierry Marx and Alain Dutournier. Signature dishes include monkfish with gnocchi and veal with Jerusalem artichokes, onions and sage. 

What Our Inspectors Say: Back in her hometown, chef Giboire has taken over the controls of the former Azoeñ. She proposes very elegant cuisine — made with top-notch ingredients — organised into a short menu. Served in a laid-back and intimate atmosphere conducive to sharing confidences...

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10. Amélie Darvas, Äponem-Auberge du Presbytère

About: Amélie Darvas is the owner and executive chef of Äponem-Auberge du Presbytère, a modern French restaurant plays with authentic and daring flavours and magnifies them by using fresh produce from markets. As a child, she accompanied her step-father, who worked for French chocolate manufacturer Valrhona, on his visits to top French restaurants, which sparked her love for gastronomy. Over the years, she has worked at Éric Frechon’s Bristol restaurant, Le Meurice and started her first restaurant, Hai Kai. Last July, she started Äponem-Auberge du Presbytère with Gaby Benicio, who is the sommeliere of the house. 

The restaurant's signature dishes include vegetables, tomato with honey, timut pepper and grapefruit sorbet, and roast pigeon with lentils and coffee.

What Our Inspectors Say: Lying in the Haut-Languedoc is this inn which belongs to a former 17th century presbytery that exudes an undeniable serenity. Chef Darvas wanted to “get back to the ingredients without intermediaries”. To this end, she works with market produce and vegetables from her permaculture garden, while her Italian-Brazilian business partner, who is a trained sommelier, serves up fine wines from the region. More than a restaurant, this is a flavoursome lifelong project.

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