It is hardly surprising that Japanese restaurants make up one quarter of the inaugural MICHELIN Guide Taipei 2018 list. Out of the 20 Michelin-starred restaurants in Tapiei, five of them offer Japanese cuisine. Here’s a round-up of the freshly-minted Michelin-starred Japanese restaurants to indulge in Nippon-style feasts in Taipei.
Michelin Rating: Two stars
About: The Japanese contemporary restaurant is one of the city’s most exquisite kaiseki destinations. The 36-seat restaurant is helmed by chef de cuisine, Ryohei Hieda, who has trained under the founder of three Michelin-starred RyuGin in Tokyo, Seiji Yamamoto. The menu has featured seasonal ingredients from Taiwan, such as flower crabs, lobsters, higomoro shrimps and yellow beef. A omakase menu costs TWD 3,000 to 5,000 a person.
What our inspectors say: “Sister to the world-renowned RyuGin in Tokyo, this restaurant delivers similarly creative, modern Japanese cuisine but uses the best of the island's ingredients and introduces subtle elements of Taiwanese gastronomy to the dishes. These ingredients are superb, the cooking is technically accomplished and the contrasts in texture perfectly judged. The 7 and 10 course menus, well matched wine pairings and exceptional service make for a memorable experience.”
2. Sushi Nomura (鮨野村)
Michelin Rating: One star
About: This discreetly hole-in-the-wall has a charming bamboo interior. The omakase sushi menu includes shirako (fish milt), snapper, flounder, chutoro , uni and scallop. Expect to pay TWD 1,500 to 3,000 a person.
What our inspectors say: “Good sushi starts with the rice - here it's a mix of koshihakari from Kakomachi and nanatsuboshi from Hokkaido, cooked in Mount Fuji spring water and seasoned with a blend of akazu and regular sushi vinegar. Chef Nomura, who moved to Taiwan 11 years ago, sets the bar high for every detail of the dining experience - the fish is aged properly and sliced skilfully. The marinated silver-skinned fish and the anago are not to be missed.”
Michelin rating: One star
About: Sushi aficionados, including some celebrities and politicians, swear by this minimalistic sushi restaurant that sits just 15 people. Expect to pay TWD 1,500 to 3,00 per person.
What our inspectors say: “The interior follows Japanese tradition with pale wood, warm lighting and fabric-wrapped panels. Niigata rice is seasoned with three vinegars, including akazu that gives depth and umami. The owner also imports sake and the list changes constantly to match the seasonal ingredients available. This relaxed sushi spot also serves cooked dishes if pre-ordered. Note that it is not related in any way to its namesake in Tokyo.”
4. Sushi Ryu (鮨隆)
Michelin Rating: One star
About: Walk past the bamboo-lined doors and enter into a zen-like oasis. The sushi selection include kinmedai, octopus, shima-aji (fish), uni and chutoro. End the meal with a seasonal fruit platter. Expect to pay TWD 3,000 to 5,000 per person.
What our inspectors say: “Having had almost 30 years' experience working in renowned sushi restaurants in Taipei, the owner-chef opened here in 2017. The décor is traditionally Japanese, with solid wood countertops imported from Canada. He insists on shipping the fish from Japan three times a week and his rice is seasoned with three different kinds of vinegar. Only prix-fixe omakase menus are available; the anglerfish liver sushi is a standout.”
Michelin Rating: One star
About: This refined omakase Japanese restaurant in the posh enclaves of Da’an is part of the Yukari group, which also runs Yun Sushi and Yunhoshi Sushi, both in Taipei. The menus have included dishes such as chilled chawanmushi with caviar and squid ink, wagyu don, unadon and grilled karasumi (dried mullet roe) with mochi. Prepare to fork out TWD 3,000 to 5,000 a person.
What our inspectors say: “The Japanese chef is well known for his insistence on freshness and the skilful juxtaposition of different flavours. Only omakase menus are served and the exact items depend on the catch of the day. The menus feature prominently raw fish and nigiri sushi at lunch, while more cooked kappo dishes are served at night. Precise attention is paid to every detail, down to the blended vinegar in the sushi rice and the kelp bonito stock.”
SEE MORE: Find out when went on during the MICHELIN Guide Taipei 2018 ceremony here
