This former flax factory (1907) is steeped in history, as is illustrated by the bare stone walls, authentic details and old photos. This industrial legacy has been cleverly updated with a wealth of trendy details and personalised works of art, creating a happy mix of old and new. The young couple at the helm shines the spotlight on a modern, deftly-crafted, international score, while lavishing great care on the fascinating sauces and textures. Kick off with subtle dogfish, enhanced by a dried lime dressing and oil of linden leaf, before moving on to sample red gurnard marinated in a tangy dressing and flanked by a gutsy lemon-spiked mayonnaise. The chef is a member of the NorthSeaChef movement, which aims to raise the demand for lesser-known fish and bycatch seafood.